Sired's Map project - Updated- 4/16 - files available see first post

@warhawk77 You have probably found a map by now, but in case you’r still looking I thought I would mention this.

Before I managed to get my hands on 1914 I printed this reworked map out, and used 1940 pieces.

The nice thing is even if you do eventually get 1914 you may still prefer to use this map (since Europe has a lot more space on it).

https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/217043/1914-reworked-map

@macdown343
Why don’t you use the existing map files or do you want to customrise territory’s ?

Part 4: Starting the ships, adding decals to the tanks, skin tones on the soldiers

Today spent some time adding paint to the sprayed ships, including painting the water jettisons on the subs black (this was very tricky and ended up looking a little sloppy). Advice for painting the jettisons: toothpicks are not small enough! If you do use toothpicks, you’ll have to dab a dot of black for each tiny jettison.

The battleships were a bit easier, and painting the decks, bridge, and smoke stacks were all done in silver. I plan on adding the final grey coat last after the deck and stacks/bridge dry. I experimented with how to add the national emblem, and will probably opt for a white background with a red dot on the bow of the ship. In the future I may do that with the rear end of the ship.

I painted the tranny smoke stacks silver and added a white background for the emblem on the destroyers. All in all, the Japanese navy is coming along nicely.

The armor is pretty much done. I added a white flag to the front side of the armor and will be adding the red dots later. For the aircraft, I’ll be adding a red band around the rear part of the plane. I was debating between sky blue and red and may alternate just for some variety.

The soldiers got some skin! And I just want to say that adding the paint alone brings out the contours of their facial features in an excellent manner on their own. I may add a touch of black to certain areas of the face but that will be a last step. The next step will be panting their uniforms, rifles, and helmets.

After all this is done, I will be spray painting the japanese bombers white, the aircraft carrier black, and then will add the details to those. The Japanese are about 55% done all in all and I’m pleased with the results so far even if they do look a bit amateurish. Stay tuned.

IMG_6405.JPG IMG_6404.JPG IMG_6403.JPG IMG_6402.JPG

@Tottes1337 all versions (previous and current) of the BBR cards are also available for purchase here:

https://www.makeplayingcards.com/sell/yg-card-decks

If you want a free download, they are available on the discord (link should be above).

@siredblood:

@IWillNeverGrowUp:

That angled divider in the UK box is going to be a pain to use I think.
I always find corners in deeper boxes like this to be difficult (at least they are in mine), especially as they get tighter like those angles.

Its been game tested! I added so many units to each country (well not China) you will never need to empty anything. I was UK last weekend, never saw the bottom of the box :) If one was in the corner, you can always use a sub to get it out haha.

I wasn’t fond of the angle idea, but it best fit the units with those bombers.

Well, if you never get to the bottom that would be alright. I just pictured trying to pick them out of there and it hurt my fingers thinking about it. lol

I love it!

Sounds like a fun project.  The fundamental problem you’d have to solve, however, is the fact that the country names and – even more problematically – the country borders that existed historically in WWI were in some cases quite different from what they were in WWII.If you make them accurate for WWI, you’ll eventually end up in an alternate-history situation in which you’re fighting WWII on a WWI map with WWI powers as players.  It can also be argued that the political extremism of the 1920s and 1930s that eventually led to WWII was a direct result of the way WWI ended (specifically, the Versailles Treaty), and that if you alter the end of WWI then you alter the situation that eventually led to WWII.  That’s fine if working in an alternate-history environment is something you’re comfortable with; you simply have to be aware that you’re dealing with alternate history.

In terms of the map problem, perhaps the only option that would cover all the bases accurately, regardless of the political situation at any given moment, would be to use a simple map that is purely topographical rather than political in its territorial divisions.  A supplementary element could be to add overlays (drawn on large acetate sheets, or something similar) that provide political borders which can be adjusted from decade to decade.

@Tall-Paul amazing craftsmanship