Under Construction (Please don't post)

The most effective russian players I’ve encountered are the ones that are able to build up a force that is able to threaten a counter on a german stack. If a good german player wants to go for Moscow they are able to get it, however I’ve seen plenty games where the UK/USA are putting enough pressure on the  German player for him to stop just in front of Moscow. If the Russian player only has bought inf at this point there is not much of a threat for the German player to keep russia contained and slowly kill it economically. However if there is a stack of paired inf/art the pushback power is a lot bigger and thus Germany can be challenged and Russia may be able to break the German wall.

I think you just made your plan worse.

I pointed out that the attack on G3 isn’t strong enough to take London. You have just made your G3 attack weaker, which means that london definlity isn’t falling.

There’s two things I think a bid should always be used for:
1 art in Kweichow - if you hit in Hunan J1, you can take down a good portion of the Japanese ground troops on counter attack
1 sub in SZ98 (the Med) or is it SZ99?

Others are mostly nice to have - 1art in Alexandria helps the the Tobruk crush, 1art in Sudan helps the Ethiopia crush. An art in Karelia helps the Finish push. 1inf in New Guinea helps to gain the NO.

@Young:

@Nippon-koku:

Japan has to almost have a perfect game to take India round 4 by not losing any land units on the islands and taking out ANZAC’s DD + TT round 1.�  There are no guarantees in a dice game.

Exactly.�  On top of that, even if Japan does take India round 4, how does it look on the rest of the board?�  Japan can’t take India round 4 AND dominate the waters AND completely wipe out China AND take care of the Siberian troops (most games I’m using those units to attack Manchuria or Korea) AND completely control the money islands.�

If Japan goes all out to get India by round 4 the Allies can cause them a lot of headaches elsewhere.�

I think new players favor the Calcutta crush, while experienced players understand other priorities.

And I’ll fully admit that Calcutta crush can appear unstoppable to new players who find themselves on the receiving end

Hey NavySeal,
I have done the same thing. I am kind of a piece junkie so when new editions come out, I often buy several copies for all the pieces. Of course, then I end up with too many of certain things. Even with the unit sculpts. I will want a lot of infantry, tanks, artillery, planes, etc. but not so much with capital ships, even for US and Japan.
So, I count out what I want to keep for my own games and put the rest on eBay. Sometimes I might lump all the extras in a big lot or make up a bunch of little sets. There are guys out there that are even worse piece junkies than I am and my game pieces pretty much always sell.
As for the extra game boards, instruction books, cardboard accessories and dice, you can put them on eBay as well. Some guys out there have a lot of playing pieces but perhaps missed out on whatever game you are offering, or just don’t want to go out and buy a new one. I found the best way to ship these, especially with the game board, is to use a USPS Large Game Board Flat Rate Box. You can put all the game accessories in one of these along with some packing material to fill in the extra space and the USPS will ship it anywhere as long as it doesn’t weigh over 70 pounds. For shipping within the US, I think it costs $16.95. You should check usps.com to be sure. I don’t know about international shipping because I only ship within the US.
The MOST important part is to price these items to sell. Start low and take the shipping cost into account. If you start out with too high a price, you won’t get any bids and will be stuck with them. Even if your starting price isn’t too high, remember they will have to also pay shipping. So start low. You are probably not going to get what  you paid. The object here is to at least make a little money back on your investment and provide some gaming materials to someone that can use them. Even if you just get the lowest bid, at least you get that amount for yourself and you get rid of the excess pieces.
Another option is to offer free shipping which can draw more looks at your items, but then you have to either start your bidding price to include the shipping costs or take a loss with the shipping charges.
Good luck.

If you pull off Sealion and the US isn’t in the war already or sitting on Gibraltar, they are at least 2 moves away from getting any kind of help to London. Italy should take Gibraltar if they can and block out the Mediterranean. Italy can move troops to the west coast and get into Syria and hopefully Iraq (if Russia hasn’t gotten their first) Then take over Africa. Build London up by 6-10 ipc’s per turn (now there are 6 of any kind of build you made, plus all your air units). US at that point needs to make a hard decision, liberate Europe or kill Japan.  Fact is they cant do both. Germany and Japan are making a combined 120-140 ipc’s at that point and Italy can make an easy 30+ with their NO’s running wild in Africa. $ wise, game over, and you didn’t even have to make a move on the US. Still a lot of factors have to be taken care of, like is there still an allied NAVY in the Mediterranean? Does Italy still have any NAVY left? What kind of landing force is left in London. And where is Russia? Can Japan put pressure on Russia? Is Japan bombing the heck out of Calcutta?

Page 9 in the Pacific 1940 Rulebook does the job for me

That does help a lot; thanks to all who responded to my questions!