I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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Piece Storage and keeping games intact
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@Private:
@CWO:
I discovered Flambeau Zerust plastic tackle boxes around that time, and my life hasn’t been the same since.� �Â
The mind boggles Marc! What is it that you get up to with these boxes?!
Phrased as a formal argumentation:
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Collecting and organizing A&A sculpts is one of my life’s major recreational activities.
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The Flambeau Zerust plastic tackle boxes have greatly helped me to carry out this organization activity.
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Ergo, those boxes have had a major impact on my life.
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Here are some sample pictures of my current tray configuration. These two pictures show the trays for Japan, one of the major powers whose primary sculpts are stored in two trays.
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And here we see the tray for France, one of the minor powers whose primary sculpts are stored in one tray. There’s also a picture of what the tray looks like when the cover is closed.
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So this is why you threw away all your poker chips… you don’t need to stack units on chips! Good Lord, how many sets of the game do you have combined there? That’s a plethora of units!
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So this is why you threw away all your poker chips… you don’t need to stack units on chips! Good Lord, how many sets of the game do you have combined there? That’s a plethora of units!
I didn’t throw away my poker chips; they’re housed in their own plastic storage boxes. The chips are organized into several trays, and compartmentalized within each tray. Currently, I have some secondary trays which are for the old-style small-ridge A&A mini poker chips, plus a primary tray for the handsome new-style large-ridge ones which are stamped with the A&A logo. “How many sets of the game do you have combined there?” is a tough one to answer because the answer depends case-by-case on each unit. Some units don’t go back very far in the game history of A&A because the designs changed or the colour changed (or both changed), or because the units themselves are new. Some go further back because they became standardized at an earlier date. The Japanese carrier, battleship, destroyer, submarine and naval transport are probably the pooled units that go back the furthest; they haven’t changed since the burnt-orange version of the original Pacific game (the early printings of which had cherry red Japanese units).
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Went back and forth between a few stores looking at multiple options for national storage bins, and debated on larger organizers for sides (like one big for Axis and one big one for Allies), or smaller bins for each (of the 5) nations.
Ended up buying five small bins, one for each nation and an extra one for neutral/industrial plants (from my A&A Classic), etc.
Below is a couple of examples… ended up getting 13-compartment Stack-On bin organizers from Lowes for about $3 bucks a pop. They are adjustable… I was only able to pick up 1941 today, so it looks like a ghost-town in each bin… I have room to further subdivide if/when necessary after I get 1942 later this week (had to order it, since apparently Pensacola is only good enough for stocking 1941) and my reinforcements from HBG.
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Finishing up work on my national storage bins… removed the store/manufacturer label from each bin, and since there’s one bin for each nation, I custom made some product label stickers that I will be putting on each bin cover using battle and/or national flags for each:
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Nice stickers – including the fact that the correct WWII-era version of the US flag is being used. Are you laser-printing them on Avery sticky label stock or using some other method?
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Thanks… I’m having them “professionally” done… www.vistaprint.com (Small Product Label Stickers - Rectangle 3.43" x 1.93" size). Simply upload whatever picture files you want printed, they print up the stickers and send them back.
I of course used the 1912 American Flag for a WWII sticker… using anything else would be like using today’s German tricolor flag for WWII Germany. The Governors of all 48 states would agree!
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I of course used the 1912 American Flag for a WWII sticker… using anything else would be like using today’s German tricolor flag for WWII Germany.Â
Actually, your reference to the German flag made me notice that the flag you’re using for Germany is the Kriegsmarine flag and the flag you’re using for Japan is the IJN naval ensign. They’re actually good choices in the sense that (in my opinion at least) they’re more attractive designs than the main national flags, but strictly speaking they’re naval flags.
By the way, you may already have noticed that the out-of-the-box US A&A roundels are, strictly speaking, incorrect for the period from 1942 onward because they contain a red dot in the middle of the star. The dot was deleted soon after Pearl Harbor because of its resemblance to the red-disc Japanese roundel.
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I’m aware of the Battle Flags as opposed to national flags… I just like them as spiffier emblems and they’re still WWII specific. The German flag I used is actually the Reichskriegsflagge. Often mistaken as strictly a naval flag, it’s actually designed personally by Adolf Hitler… this flag served the Heer (Army) and the Luftwaffe as their War Flag, and the Kriegsmarine as its War Ensign (the National Flag serving as Jack). This flag was hoisted daily in barracks operated by units of the Wehrmacht combined German military forces, and it had to be flown from a pole positioned near the barracks entrance, or failing this, near the guard room or staff building.
P.S.
Pretty much the same thing with the Japanese Rising Sun flag… that’s a battle/war flag too, also used by the IJA from 1870-1945… much like the Reichskriegsflagge, it wasn’t limited to just the Navy… hence I feel the use of battle/war flags to denote the military trays of Japan & Germany is perfectly fine. Once I get everything to where I like it (extra units from HBG and bins properly marked), i’ll repost pics of my final results (and probably next to my nearly empty 1941-only bins for comparison).Attached a pic of the Reichskiegsflagge in use… definitely not the Kriegsmarine hoisting the flag!
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I got my bin stickers back from Vistaprint… lookin good… now to spruce up my five nation storage bins…
Edit:
With one overall pic of the 6 bins with stickers…
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Here’s the final pics of my five national storage bins with stickers (the 6th is the Neutral Armies/Sundries bin).
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Very nice! I also put stickers on my boxes.
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I cant believe I forgot a picture, lol… I replaced Italy’s roundel. I didn’t like the WWI roundel that they used in the map/counter, etc. I don’t have pics of all the containers. The containers also have a setup card in the top. I do have a special container for Tech weapons. I put an Biohazard symbol on that container. Also we play with certified dice from Vegas. A little bigger than the normal axis dice.
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Sweet! I have a round wooden dice tray I got off Amazon.com… its very nice… and (hopefully any day now) I should have a full set of combat dice from FMG for the five major powers. Those are nice bins… they look about the same size (roughly) as my bins. I thought about bigger stickers for my bins, but I liked being able to see inside them while still closed.
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Where’d you get those white factories in your box ? e-bay ?
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Yep, yep… E-bay… I’ve got both grey and white factories off E-bay (white is original MB game, I think grey is revised). But I got 24 white ones in my bin… Just E-bay search “Axis and Allies Replacement”… you’ll find all sorts of stuff.
Oh, and here’s that baggie we were talking about… :wink:
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OK. Thanks.