What advice should I give new A&A players?

@Rescue55-joe I believe the “10 IPCs for each country” that you are referring to are actually the National Control Markers, which are used to track both conquered territories and national production levels. As barnee pointed out, IPCs are not physically provided, and the Rulebook instructs us to track them on paper, but any proxy (such as Monopoly money) will do. See page 7 of the Rulebook for details on both National Control Markers and IPCs.

In a nutshell, the National Production Track is used to chart your “income” using a National Control Marker. and every turn the “money” goes into your “bank account”, which is represented by IPCs, where it can be spent on new units (or saved for later).

I hope this helps.

You could probably sell it for a few dollars locally (i.e. sell it in a way that doesn’t involve shipping costs), as Taamvan suggests, but I doubt that there would be much interest in an out-of-town sale, given that the game is missing some of its original pieces. A&A 1941 is still in print, and is the cheapest of the A&A games on the market, so when you factor in the shipping costs a potential out-of-town buyer could probably find a brand-new copy for about the same price. DoManMacgee’s donation idea is a good one; youngsters who’ve never played A&A won’t be bothered by the replacement sculpts, and as DoManMacgee said this would foster the next generation’s interest in the game. My own preference would be in line with Midnight Reaper’s suggestion to cannibalize the game for its sculpts, which are unique to the 1941 version of the game. I own multiple copies of 1941 for exactly that reason. The American P-40 Warhawk gives you exactly the right fighter to use for China’s Flying Tiger unit in the 1940 game; the British naval transport and the Soviet carrier correct the 1940 game’s lack of nation-specific sculpts for those units; and the battlecruisers (British and Japanese) and heavy tanks (Russian and German) provide good opportunites for house-ruled special units in the 1940, 1942 and Anniversary games.

Thanks for the help and thank you!

Oh my, there’s some Necromancy going on here… this is a very old post… any issues I brought up here were resolved over a year ago.

Thinking of the sculpted, why do most of them (Italy is exclude) have a number from 1 to 20 for the infantry?

@Sir_Cala:

A submarine either attacks or submerge.

If it attacks and hits a unit with a surprise strike with no destroyer present. The ship that is chosen to be hit does not defend and is removed from the battle board. Exceptions are Battleships. They take 2 hits and the second hit removes of the battleboard.
Repeat steps 2-7 if combat continues.

If a submarine submerges it is not involved in any sea battle.

so is that to say that if a sub scores a hit with a surprise attack it destroys whatever unit it hits, with the exception of battle ships which would need to be hit by two surprise attacks? cause battle ships have a defence of 4

General Combat Sequence
Combat takes place over a number of rounds. Each battle round consists of several steps.
1. Place units along the battle strip
2. Submarine surprise strike or submerge (sea battles only)
3. Attacking units fire
4. Defending units fire
5. Remove defender�s casualties
6. Press attack or retreat
7. Conclude combat

step 2.
submarine surprise strike or submerge (sea Battles only)
This step is specific to attacking and defending submarines.
Before the general sea battle takes place (steps 3�5), both attacking and defending submarines choose to either make a
Surprise Strike die roll or submerge. However, if your opponent has a destroyer in the battle, your attacking or defending
submarines cannot submerge or make a Surprise Strike. Combat proceeds normally, and your submarines fire along with your
other units in step 3 or 4.
Submerge: Attacking or defending submarines that choose to submerge are immediately removed from the battle strip and
returned to the game board in the contested sea zone, removing them from the rest of that sea battle.
Players on both sides have to decide whether attacking and defending submarines will fire or submerge before rolling any dice.
The attacking player decides first.
Surprise Strike: Each attacking submarine conducting a Surprise Strike rolls one die, scoring a hit on a roll of �2� or less.
After the attacker has rolled for all attacking submarines, the defender chooses one sea unit for each hit scored and moves it
behind the casualty strip. (Submarines cannot hit air units.) Then each defending submarine conducting a Surprise Strike rolls
one die, scoring a hit on a roll of �1.� After the defender has rolled for all defending submarines, the attacker chooses one sea
unit for each hit scored and removes it from play.
Once all Surprise Strike rolls have been made, remove the defender�s casualties. This step is over for this round of
combat. Repeat this step during each round of combat as long as there are attacking and/or defending submarines and no
opposing destroyers. Any hits made during this step that do not destroy units (such as battleships) remain in effect until the
end of the combat.
Note: In both cases, attacking or defending, transports can be chosen as casualties only if there are no other eligible units.
You cannot choose submerged submarines as casualties since they have been removed from the battle.

@jluna1273:

LOL, well of all the fine qualities that my wife possesses, patience isn’t one of them. The first Global 1940 game played lasted 18 hours. She’d never seen anything close to what we did, and thought we were crazy.

Then it’s a good thing for her that, to the best of my knowledge, Larry Harris has no plans to develop a game called “Axis & Allies: The Hundred Years’ War”.

@Imperious:

It costs only $19 on cool stuff…. that’s Sushi lunch

I’m an incredibly poor college student lol