John Brown's Painted Axis and Allies Pieces

@vodot Really useful, thanks a lot

@brpiusosb

We order from GBS enterprises. They have mattress protectors in all sizes., and they are water proof.

Any good mattress protectors should be water proof, and I’m sure there are other companies that sell them.

We quit using mattress pads, because it takes the feel away from a new mattress, because of the padding in them.

@cavestone I also use vallejo paints. The key question here is are you brush painting, or using an airbrush, or both?

The Vallejo paints have a “Model Air” line that comes pre-thinned. You can buy a thinning product (from them) to add to the “Model Color” series paints, which are the exact same thing, just more concentrated and thicker.

If you’ve never used an airbrush, its a bit finicky–it requires regular cleaning and a without a good brush and compressor the paint will flow very inconsistently. The process will be very frustrating unless you use the pre-thinned paints because the brush can only blow paint that is within a certain set of thickness parameters that are difficult to achieve, especially if you are trying to mix the air in the brush’s reserve or in small quantities. That’s why having copies of both Model Air and Model Color is fine by me–unlike Warhammer 40K I’m using primarily earthy colors, greens, dunkelgelb and dunkelgrau… other AFV and camoflage colors and so i don’t need a collection of primary or bright colors.

But I recommend it. The airbrush creates a sublime, beautiful layer and slight mix variations can be used to create shadows, grades, etc. Then you go back over with your brush, adding highlights, lines, details. Then, back over again with a drybrushing…then back to the airbrush to blast Flory Wash all over it.

Can’t see your photos, you can’t post photos until you have a certain post count. I wouldn’t use water to thin paints, they are water soluble but the mix and viscosity is all wrong (though water is obv. cheap and easy to clean up)

As for oil-based paints, these require thinner to clean up, they are much more difficult to drybrush with and are not used for airbrushing. The days of the old testors paints is long behind us–even apple barrel paints are easier to work with and cheaper. The early painting methods were much more about glomming thick layers of paint onto lead miniatures and the modern approach with water based paint and a series of different techniques creates much better results.

@Imperious-Leader said in Axis & Brollies : Action Cards and Event Cards:

you should set it up with card decks made at “Artscow” or something like it in terms of name. They are sold as long as you set up account and you will earn a bit of change

Also consider:
www.makeplayingcards.com was recently (2019) used successfully by siredblood to produce his “Blood Bath” A&A version card deck - at a resulting fair price for consumers

drivethrucards.com was recently (2018) used successfully by Young Grasshopper to produce his co-deck “Omaha” and “Utah” cards for A&A G’40 - at an absolute steal of a deal for consumers

If you have not already done so, please consider selling your deck(s) at either or both sites - I would love to see you get paid for your work.

@winteradler said in WinterAdler's Customization - G40 Setup Card Deck & more:

Hey everyone!

I am currently working on a game document.
The aim is to provide a better game overview and more comfort.
By means of national markers it is possible to mark out the grayed out symbols.

I would like to have a list of units,
Enter the ipc, bring in diplomacy and the victory cities.
Unfortunately, I have not found a solution for it, so the game underlay is not too big …

In 2012 “Minor Threat” aka “Children” created a nice design: https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/topic/16491/minor-threat-s-alpha-3-9-global-1940-complete-setup-charts?page=1

Just saw your ideas… I think his work is awesome!

I like your idea with cards for each land. Maybe I will use them and change design etc… Thanks for sharing your work!!!

@cyanight:

Everyone has their own unique way of painting the pieces.  No matter how we paint the pieces they must still be playable within the game.

And the nice difference between game sculpts and real military equipment is that sculpts are rarely lost or damaged in combat.  If that wasn’t the case, people might actually hesitate to risk sending their painted sculpts into battle on the game map, given the large amount of time they’ve spent on customizing them.  :-)

Nice! I like how you kept some of the original piece color in the mix on the French Navy. Lookin’ good all around!

@sgtwiltan:

Yes. There are so many. Trying to get one thing done at a time. I sent back some pieces and have started on a big batch of artillery which he loves. I’m amazed at his patience. Still have a lot of pieces he sent me and was able to find and keep them in a box so I know which pieces are his that I need to work on. They had been lost in multiple boxes from when I moved 4 years ago. I’ve also redone literally hundreds of PZIIIs including some all of the painted ones. One of these days…… I’ll get them done.

That is cool! I’m sure he doesn’t mind, because the end result is fantastic. :-)