More painted pieces for consideration

@Windrunner21
I forgot about Micro Mark.
All kinds of supplies and tools there.

Cheers

@xHavokx said in Help Identifying these game pieces!:

awe that sucks…I was hoping that they were from this game as it actually looks pretty damn fun.
Its also very weird that there not legit because if there not then whatever else game this is, 100% copied pieces from axis and allies then.

Example being the Artillery Piece that’s in the pic compared to axis’s Artillery is identical. Even down to the dice that was in the bag having the American team star with circle sticker on them. Also the “T.” cardboard pieces which I figured were the “territory claimed” pieces. I do realize that a lot of toy/game company’s re-use molds and such. Every other piece looks similar but there’s always something off or different about them. Plus the 2/3 pieces (I have more pieces that I didn’t show) Are similar but have the “peg” type bottom’s like they were to be clicked into a game board…In my hours of searching axis game pieces, It didn’t seem like any had that.

From your profile you seem to have a lot of knowledge about this game but I still hope to get another opinion or someone that knows what they are from still. Thanks though I might just have to chalk it up as a loss.

Ha Those pieces with the “peg” bottom was from a game that Milton Bradley was trying to make like the Battle Ship Game . It was called “AWE HE BLEW UP MY TANK” !!! LOL

@hengst said in Historical Board Gaming Piece Colors:

On this note, is “blonde” or “tan” a better color match for OOB UK G40 pieces?

I think tan is a better match. Blonde is too light a color to be a good match.

-Midnight_Reaper

@Andy6049:

Thank you all for the information.  Hopefully, I will start my painting project soon.  Getting a new airbrush isn’t an option right now, but I will definitely keep it in mind for later.  The plastic brush I have works decent when its not being temperamental.

I will be experimenting with spray paint, at least for primer.

When I start to finish some some, I will post a new thread with all the information of how, what , when, where, I did to paint the pieces.  Hopefully, it will benefit someone to wants to do the same and be as inspirational as the amazing work already on this forum has been for me.

Can’t wait to see your work. I’m glad to see this part of the forums grow. It has been awesome seeing everyone’s work.

I hope to be painting again, soon, myself. Glad to have another member to the team. :-)

Cheers!

John

I have seen lots of people here use acrylics and I have on occasion. Most of my paints are enamels though. I find that is stays wet longer (which is a good thing) and doesn’t clump up nearly as much on your brush. I also use enamels in my airbrush. I find that enamels are actually much easier to clean than acrylics. While acrylics are water soluble, they don’t just dissolve, especially if already dry. It involves a great deal of scrubbing and scraping. With enamels, all you need is some mineral spirits cleaner and it takes the paint right off with very little effort. Cleaning acrylic paint out of my airbrush was hell the first time I did it… never using acrylics in there again. In terms of the finish, I can only assume that enamels hold up better to bumps and scrapes than acrylic paint does.

Someone once asked if enamels, by default, have a glossy finish to them. They do not, as long as you are using flat enamels, which seem to be the standard. I use flats and they have an excellent, non-shiny finish. I feel like enamel colors are a little deeper too, on the whole, but I suppose it depends on the brand of acrylic you use. Vallejo seems to be a popular choice for acrylics. I use predominantly Model Masters (Testors) enamels. In general, I would just said to find a brand you like to work with and produces the results you like. Don’t buy super cheap paint… you will get the results you pay for.

Good luck!

I can see wizards of the coast having a blanket statement rejecting all requests to modify material, after all… they probaly deal with it alot with their D&D department than with Avilon Hill products.

Very nice work. I’m way too unsteady of hand and mind to pull that off.

@robbie358:

Hello all.  I thought I would solicit your thoughts on which types of pieces in any version of A&A scream for painting the most.

IMHO, the most confusing piece on the board in the original Pacific and Pacific 1940 is the USA fighter in China.  Having to differentiate between a Chinese fighter that looks American and any USA fighters in that zone seems like a headache waiting to happen.

Otherwise, I would say the pro-Axis and pro-Allies neutrals in Europe 1940 need attention.  The fact is that upon being attacked, you’re supposed to pick any random country to donate an infantry to that territory.  If the attacker doesn’t win, the infantry stay there but cannot be moved.  Seems like confusion might set in eventually.

Your thoughts?

HBG has British infantry for sale. I bought 25 and painted them white to use for neutral armies.