More painted pieces for consideration

@leebear

That’ll do it - and after you have used your playing pieces for a while, you’ll see if you need to spray a new layer of matt varnish.

2-3 layers - each layer thinly sprayed - and dry 24 hours between each layer.

You units will last a lifetime:+1:

Hi Everyone,

Cody Dean here from Dean’s Army Guys. I wanted to share a custom Polish army I made for a client. I love getting to do unique armies for people where I can expand beyond the main 5 powers. Check it out! Email me at info@deansarmyguys.com for a quote on the custom army of your dreams!

CodyIMG_4394.jpg IMG_4393.jpg

@hengst said in Historical Board Gaming Piece Colors:

On this note, is “blonde” or “tan” a better color match for OOB UK G40 pieces?

I think tan is a better match. Blonde is too light a color to be a good match.

-Midnight_Reaper

@Andy6049:

Thank you all for the information.  Hopefully, I will start my painting project soon.  Getting a new airbrush isn’t an option right now, but I will definitely keep it in mind for later.  The plastic brush I have works decent when its not being temperamental.

I will be experimenting with spray paint, at least for primer.

When I start to finish some some, I will post a new thread with all the information of how, what , when, where, I did to paint the pieces.  Hopefully, it will benefit someone to wants to do the same and be as inspirational as the amazing work already on this forum has been for me.

Can’t wait to see your work. I’m glad to see this part of the forums grow. It has been awesome seeing everyone’s work.

I hope to be painting again, soon, myself. Glad to have another member to the team. :-)

Cheers!

John

Very nice

These are amazing, keep up the great work.

@robbie358:

Hello all.  I thought I would solicit your thoughts on which types of pieces in any version of A&A scream for painting the most.

IMHO, the most confusing piece on the board in the original Pacific and Pacific 1940 is the USA fighter in China.  Having to differentiate between a Chinese fighter that looks American and any USA fighters in that zone seems like a headache waiting to happen.

Otherwise, I would say the pro-Axis and pro-Allies neutrals in Europe 1940 need attention.  The fact is that upon being attacked, you’re supposed to pick any random country to donate an infantry to that territory.  If the attacker doesn’t win, the infantry stay there but cannot be moved.  Seems like confusion might set in eventually.

Your thoughts?

HBG has British infantry for sale. I bought 25 and painted them white to use for neutral armies.

@Albert:

@Spitfire38:

I have looked at I-94’s decals and thought about it… the only ones I have trouble with are the Russian stars. I enjoy hand painting the insignia and I feel like it makes it look more uniform when it’s all paint, but like you said, it would definitely save some time  :lol:

Well you could save some effort there as Moscow ordered upper wing stars to be painted out on the eve of the German invasion……plain green was also changed to green with a black disruptive camo pattern   http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/index.html

I didn’t know that they painted over the top-wing stars. Thanks for sharing! If I were to paint them again, I’d probably leave them on or use decals, just for easy recognition on the game board, but I like knowing what was historically accurate.