More painted pieces for consideration

I should note that I have units from Classic, Revised Edition, 1941, & 1940 with some significant color variations. So in some cases I may be matching a different edition. So for example, I think the early UK units are darker than my 1940 versions explaining why I choose a darker color. Plus with the cheap paint, I worry that the color consistency is less consistent bottle to bottle.

When I indicate A + B paint colors, I mix then 1 to 1.

I am working on painting my 1914 game pieces and would love to see what you all have done. Especially naval, artillery and plane units. Thanks!

Thank you for the information @vodot . Yes the AAA infantry pieces would be hard to print.
Looking at an 3D printer like the ANYCUBIC Photon S 3D Printer, UV LCD Resin Printer with Dual Z-axis Linear Rail and Upgraded UV Module & Print Quietly and Off-line Printing, Build Size 4.53"(L) x 2.56"(W) x 6.49"(H).

https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Photon-Upgraded-Off-line-Printing/dp/B07RY6NSL8/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=3d+sla+printer&qid=1576351692&sr=8-7

I think this one will do well with most AAA pieces.

@cavestone I also use vallejo paints. The key question here is are you brush painting, or using an airbrush, or both?

The Vallejo paints have a “Model Air” line that comes pre-thinned. You can buy a thinning product (from them) to add to the “Model Color” series paints, which are the exact same thing, just more concentrated and thicker.

If you’ve never used an airbrush, its a bit finicky–it requires regular cleaning and a without a good brush and compressor the paint will flow very inconsistently. The process will be very frustrating unless you use the pre-thinned paints because the brush can only blow paint that is within a certain set of thickness parameters that are difficult to achieve, especially if you are trying to mix the air in the brush’s reserve or in small quantities. That’s why having copies of both Model Air and Model Color is fine by me–unlike Warhammer 40K I’m using primarily earthy colors, greens, dunkelgelb and dunkelgrau… other AFV and camoflage colors and so i don’t need a collection of primary or bright colors.

But I recommend it. The airbrush creates a sublime, beautiful layer and slight mix variations can be used to create shadows, grades, etc. Then you go back over with your brush, adding highlights, lines, details. Then, back over again with a drybrushing…then back to the airbrush to blast Flory Wash all over it.

Can’t see your photos, you can’t post photos until you have a certain post count. I wouldn’t use water to thin paints, they are water soluble but the mix and viscosity is all wrong (though water is obv. cheap and easy to clean up)

As for oil-based paints, these require thinner to clean up, they are much more difficult to drybrush with and are not used for airbrushing. The days of the old testors paints is long behind us–even apple barrel paints are easier to work with and cheaper. The early painting methods were much more about glomming thick layers of paint onto lead miniatures and the modern approach with water based paint and a series of different techniques creates much better results.

Part 4: Starting the ships, adding decals to the tanks, skin tones on the soldiers

Today spent some time adding paint to the sprayed ships, including painting the water jettisons on the subs black (this was very tricky and ended up looking a little sloppy). Advice for painting the jettisons: toothpicks are not small enough! If you do use toothpicks, you’ll have to dab a dot of black for each tiny jettison.

The battleships were a bit easier, and painting the decks, bridge, and smoke stacks were all done in silver. I plan on adding the final grey coat last after the deck and stacks/bridge dry. I experimented with how to add the national emblem, and will probably opt for a white background with a red dot on the bow of the ship. In the future I may do that with the rear end of the ship.

I painted the tranny smoke stacks silver and added a white background for the emblem on the destroyers. All in all, the Japanese navy is coming along nicely.

The armor is pretty much done. I added a white flag to the front side of the armor and will be adding the red dots later. For the aircraft, I’ll be adding a red band around the rear part of the plane. I was debating between sky blue and red and may alternate just for some variety.

The soldiers got some skin! And I just want to say that adding the paint alone brings out the contours of their facial features in an excellent manner on their own. I may add a touch of black to certain areas of the face but that will be a last step. The next step will be panting their uniforms, rifles, and helmets.

After all this is done, I will be spray painting the japanese bombers white, the aircraft carrier black, and then will add the details to those. The Japanese are about 55% done all in all and I’m pleased with the results so far even if they do look a bit amateurish. Stay tuned.

IMG_6405.JPG IMG_6404.JPG IMG_6403.JPG IMG_6402.JPG

Thanks for the advice!  I will try a different primer.

Guys,

@coachofmany:

very nice!
**––I’m glad you enjoyed them. Lord knows I CERTAINLY ENJOY HBG’S PRODUCTS!

Tall Paul**

@Tall:

Guys,

––Here is an “in-process” pic of one of the U.S. Navy APD Fast Transports. These are the famous
“Green Dragon’s” that were re-built from WW-1 ‘four-piper’ Destroyers into Fast Transports to assist the Marine Raiders in their endeavors. The paint scheme utilises “Allworkandnoclay’s” talent to the max. The units are from Shapeways and have had their depth-charge racks removed so as to have the 48-star U.S. Flag applied to their stern decks. More on these six ships as they progress. Enjoy!
––Unless I’m mistaken these are the first highly detailed, painted and decalled SHIPS that the
WarMachine has done so far.

Tall Paul Â

That is definitely a cool looking transport. :-D