VIDEO: Grasshopper's G40 Custom Table

Thank you for sending the map to my printer. I have been testing scenarios out with my A&A using my 1942 second edition. I just have been using sticky note paper to mark my Italian territories. I used the game pieces from my anniversary addition for the Italian pieces. I also added have tracks: cost is IPC 5. Attack 2, defend 2 as tanks cost 6 IPC in this version. Its nice to spend 5 IPC on an actual unit other than an AA gun. No artillery bonus on half track in this version
I also added the recruitment center from zombies.
Please see the chart below
MOBILIZATION ZONE
UNIT STATS COST MOVE ATTACK DEFENSE
LAND UNITS
INFANTRY 3 1 1 2
ARTILLERY 4 1 2 2
HALF TRACK 5 2 2 2
TANK 6 2 3 3
ANTIAIRCRAFT ARTILLERY 5 1 0 1
RECRUITMENT CENTER 10 0 0 0
INDUSTRIAL COMPLEX 15 0 0 0

89942069_234023921058065_8338820971033001984_n.jpg !
88106161_221519072308550_2482507379309019136_n.jpg tn5.png

I just wanted to say that I printed out a very large map size at 2440mm x 1118mm ( roughly 8 foot x 4 foot) on a digital printed transparency with a matt laminate and it has turned out fantastic. The quality was amazing. I searched everywhere to see if it could upscale and could not find the answers. Hopefully this will help someone who is thinking of doing the same.
I have built a custom table with magnets sunken into the table to hold the map in place. I wanted to use the table to play other games so the map had to roll up.
I also wanted to use the table for Global War 1936 and the magnets work well

Oh your talking about 1942.2, well the post should read that. Officially , 2nd edition is revised

I’m not aware of such a blank outline map existing.  Your best option might be to cover the game map with several taped-together sheets of clear acetate (the kind used for purposes like overheard projection) and trace the borders with a felt pen to produce a blank outline.  You’d then have various options for transfering this outline to the wood surface.  A low-tech method would be to cover the wood surface with sheets of carbon paper (if you can still find any, since it’s gone out of style), place your acetate outline over the carbon paper, then trace over the borders with a hard pencil.  Alternately, you could scan or digitally photograph your acetate outline and use that as the printing file you mentioned.

@Young:

Thanks CWO Marc, really appreciate your comments… do you play often? I understand there is a lot of players in Montreal, do you have a game group?

For many years I’ve had too much going on in my life, professionally and otherwise, to have had time to do much of anything other than collecting the A&A games.  And, to be honest, I have too many issues with many of the features of the various A&A games that I’ll probably never play anything other than what I’m hoping to create at some distant point in the future when I do have the time for it, which is a completely personalized version of the Global game that, for all intents and purposes, keeps the sculpts and the map board but throws out the entire rulebook and reconceptualizes the game from scratch.  And it’s not even fully correct to say “keeps the sculpts and the map board” either.  I’ll be expanding the number of nations and the number of unit types by making use of the very large pool of A&A sculpts I’ve acquired over the years, for instance the ones from the early-edition games and the ones from 1941 and 1914.  And as I’ve noted in the thread where I’ve posted pictures of my custom table, one of the first things I did to the Global 1940 map was to rework its “under-the-plexiglass” roundel allocations to better reflect the structure of the world as it existed prior to the invasion of Manchuria in 1931, as a starting point from which I can then modify the map (by placing roundels on top of the plexiglass) to represent any subsequent starting date from 1931 onward.  A related project that I worked on to create the infrastructure for this eventual new game was the Global 1940 map inventory, a copy of which I posted over here last September:

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=36590.0

But at this point I don’t have an actual plan for what this reconceptualization will look like.  Nor am I likely to do so until I have the time to work on this project solidly for months at a time…so this may have to wait until retirement (which isn’t for tomorrow by a long shot) before this idea translates into anything concrete.

@Tall:

**––They’re already great,…and on their way to being “PREMIUM”

----You know, I wonder if I my desire for ultimate detail on my units might not be partially to blame for everyones’ “detail addiction” of late. If so I’ll take my ‘bows’ for enfluencing you (in the smallest of ways) in your future endeavors, and I’m anxiously awaiting your future “Premium” works.

Tall Paul**

If you wish to believe that then good for you. Fact is a lot of us don’t have the money to pay for a professional painter let alone a team of them. Fact is, some of us don’t have a whole lot of time to devote to it, but we do learn as we go and so our products keep getting better.  Yes the units you receive may be the best of what any of us could achieve, but like my earlier argument, comes down to time and learning.

Thanks you for the reply! E-mail sent to Chessex - looking forward to getting these.