I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
CF362D52-269F-4480-8CBB-08139099138F.jpeg A9E12EA1-66EB-4671-86AC-68C62FD30AD5.jpeg 858DE1F2-030A-4D5A-93E4-70A7D1180ADB.jpeg 8F513EE0-DA37-4BA9-880E-4D5EF7BF431F.jpeg F0188165-757B-4CC1-BF67-5045832283C9.jpeg 2E3CD627-0D31-4121-ACF8-682F9F58A40B.jpeg
Game Aids A&A 1940 Global 2nd Edition
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Guys,
––I’m just ‘marking’ this thread for future use. And a big Thank you to the guys who spend their time making useful items for the rest of us,….and for free!. :-D
----“IL” was working on a program that would acknowledge people that devoted their time/money/expetise in supporting this game and/or website by honoring them with a “badge”. I will see that you are nominated.
----Is this Spirou’s project, alone?
“Tall Paul”
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superb! thank you.
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hi there
“Real Life” got me, but I’m planing on correcting the errors next week (the ones knp7765 pointed out), sorry for the long break
@Tall Paul
yes, all the work is mine. But my contribution to A&A is nowhere close to what IL and others have done. Thank you for the nomination, I don’t think I deserve it :wink: -
Thanks for all the work on these. We used them at our last gaming weekend. I put magnetic paper under the charts and glued washers to a few roundels of each power.
I pasted the piece stats chart on the inside lids of the containers holding the pieces. -
I think the Production charge may be off for UK. Shouldn’t it be 29 &16 not 28 & 17?
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@IKE:
I think the Production charge may be off for UK. Shouldn’t it be 29 &16 not 28 & 17?
In the standalone games it is 29/16, in Global 28/17 is correct.
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@P@nther:
@IKE:
I think the Production charge may be off for UK. Shouldn’t it be 29 &16 not 28 & 17?
In the standalone games it is 29/16, in Global 28/17 is correct.
Thank you. I’m going to try and update bcguitars’s pdf set up cards to reflect this. If you know of any changes between alpha+3 and 2nd Edition could you share?
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@IKE:
@P@nther:
@IKE:
I think the Production charge may be off for UK. Shouldn’t it be 29 &16 not 28 & 17?
In the standalone games it is 29/16, in Global 28/17 is correct.
Thank you. I’m going to try and update bcguitars’s pdf set up cards to reflect this. If you know of any changes between alpha+3 and 2nd Edition could you share?
BCguitar’s are the best.
There are changes between Alpha 3 and 2nd edition.
You can find them here:
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@IKE:
@P@nther:
@IKE:
I think the Production charge may be off for UK. Shouldn’t it be 29 &16 not 28 & 17?
In the standalone games it is 29/16, in Global 28/17 is correct.
Thank you. I’m going to try and update bcguitars’s pdf set up cards to reflect this. If you know of any changes between alpha+3 and 2nd Edition could you share?
BCguitar’s are the best.
There are changes between Alpha 3 and 2nd edition.
You can find them here:
Thanks. I find the set up chart a little hard to read so I plan on cutting that half off and just using the left side which has the starting IPC’s, NO’s and turn order. I think I’ve identified the only NO that needs updating which is ‘USA 5 IPC’s for atleast 1 land unit in France’. That and the IPC change for UK mentioned above.
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@IKE:
@P@nther:
@IKE:
I think the Production charge may be off for UK. Shouldn’t it be 29 &16 not 28 & 17?
In the standalone games it is 29/16, in Global 28/17 is correct.
Thank you. I’m going to try and update bcguitars’s pdf set up cards to reflect this. If you know of any changes between alpha+3 and 2nd Edition could you share?
Just one thing I remember:
@Rulebook:
Set up units as shown on the setup charts found in Pacific
1940 and Europe 1940. Additionally, place the following
units:
Amur: 6 Soviet Infantry
Sakha: 6 Soviet Infantry and 2 Soviet AAA
Buryatia: 6 Soviet Infantry
Egypt: 2 ANZAC Infantry (also, remove 1 United
Kingdom infantry)At least Egypt was different in Alpha+3.
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And in case you have some charts with politics remember that with 2nd Edition the territory of Korea was added to the Soviet-Mongolian Defense-Pact:
@rulebook:
Soviet-Mongolian Defense Pact:
…
If the Soviet Union attacks Korea or any Japan-controlled territory bordering these Mongolian
territories while Mongolia is still a strict neutral, Mongolia will remain neutral and not ally itself with the Soviet Union. -
hi,
1.- what paper size should i print it on?
2.- error on NO chart- Germany "+5iPC: Germany controls Novgorod (Leningrad) " -
I was using a NO chart but the problem arises when you count for all the European Axis territories for Russia. If you can see in my previous post’s photo that we use cards. I made a card for each possible territory that Russia can take. The cards seem to work better for us.
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Ok, i was just pointing out that it should be IPC instead of iPC 8-)
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Got the Set-Ups printed out, now I have nice large, easy to read set up cards.
Beautiful, I love them, thank you so much for making them. Beats having a lame few pages of printer paper with the game set up on them by a long shot. -
Got the Set-Ups printed out, now I have nice large, easy to read set up cards.
Beautiful, I love them, thank you so much for making them. Beats having a lame few pages of printer paper with the game set up on them by a long shot.Did you make the changes to reflect 2nd edition setups? There were changes to units.
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@IKE:
Got the Set-Ups printed out, now I have nice large, easy to read set up cards.
Beautiful, I love them, thank you so much for making them. Beats having a lame few pages of printer paper with the game set up on them by a long shot.Did you make the changes to reflect 2nd edition setups? There were changes to units.
Think ya should read the thread title again :wink:
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Whoops, I was thinking of the other thread with BCguitar’s set up cards.
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Missed one NO for Germany: +5 IPCs for Axis control of the Caucasus.
fixed
@mattsk:2.- error on NO chart- Germany "+5iPC: Germany controls Novgorod (Leningrad) "
fixed
Also, on the Chinese NO symbol, I wondered why you didn’t have the crossed swords and the little Japanese symbol on that one.
I also noticed none of your US NOs had any Axis symbols. The first and third US NO should have all three Axis symbols in them, the second and fourth should have just Japan’s symbol and the fifth should have Germany and Italy.according to the rulebook, there are no specifications about with whom the US is supposed to be at war to gain the advantage of the NO’s
1.- what paper size should i print it on?
the small charts are 1.5x A6; the two big ones are A3
@cyanight:I was using a NO chart but the problem arises when you count for all the European Axis territories for Russia. If you can see in my previous post’s photo that we use cards. I made a card for each possible territory that Russia can take. The cards seem to work better for us.
I see the problem… I’d use the grey/green/red chips in this case, but there are certainly advantes with the card system
Thanks for all the work on these. We used them at our last gaming weekend. I put magnetic paper under the charts and glued washers to a few roundels of each power.
Thank you so much for the pictures! I’m really really happy, somebody has some use for that material ;-)
@ch0senfktard:Got the Set-Ups printed out, now I have nice large, easy to read set up cards.
Beautiful, I love them, thank you so much for making them. Beats having a lame few pages of printer paper with the game set up on them by a long shot.I’m happy you enjoy them! Thanks for the comment.
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These charts are great, I have them printed out and laminated. But we noticed an odd thing, namely that on the order of play sequence France is missing.
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