WAR ROOM II - The Sequel

Iv’e always felt that in the game axis has to win by a certain turn to win. Once you go be on a certain turn then your going into late 45 46 47 etc.
Victory city’s and or points seems to get a quicker out come in our games. If axis don’t have 30 points by end of any turn up to 10 rounds they lose. Now of course this may change based on better players. We usually can see if the axis will get 30 points on turn 10 or not or maybe 11.

Your probably looking at a bit different scenario.
Losing side

But then all players have to agree but the winning side will say we won but losing side got the end win.

Something to that affect ? But then game may drag on.

@fieldcommander The only issue with the larger map 5x10 are the reach ranges. So if leave some space around the edges for pieces and such you might have a hard time reaching the middle of the board, like the all important Mediterranean, especially if you have short arms like me!

Christmas bump.

'tis the season : ) worth a listen : )

Sounds like a fun project.  The fundamental problem you’d have to solve, however, is the fact that the country names and – even more problematically – the country borders that existed historically in WWI were in some cases quite different from what they were in WWII.If you make them accurate for WWI, you’ll eventually end up in an alternate-history situation in which you’re fighting WWII on a WWI map with WWI powers as players.  It can also be argued that the political extremism of the 1920s and 1930s that eventually led to WWII was a direct result of the way WWI ended (specifically, the Versailles Treaty), and that if you alter the end of WWI then you alter the situation that eventually led to WWII.  That’s fine if working in an alternate-history environment is something you’re comfortable with; you simply have to be aware that you’re dealing with alternate history.

In terms of the map problem, perhaps the only option that would cover all the bases accurately, regardless of the political situation at any given moment, would be to use a simple map that is purely topographical rather than political in its territorial divisions.  A supplementary element could be to add overlays (drawn on large acetate sheets, or something similar) that provide political borders which can be adjusted from decade to decade.

It seems clear which style is more effective.  :-D

(Just kidding, but who doesn’t enjoy the occasional dig at the French?)

3

I think I might make a few for my table.  They seem pretty easy to make, and I will detail the process for any interested.

I thought about having a “war shovel” or even a flat/ramp side to the rakes to help scoop/carry units from combat zones to the combat resolution area of the board.  It wouldn’t always be useful for the crowded europe territorites but if designed well could be handy.

It does fit, u place the two pices on top of eachother (they are only 40 mm high, the man board is 50 mm outside = 42 mm inside). The space is 600x800x84 when folded, the two pices on top of eachother are 500x600x80. That leaves a 300x600x80 space and my plan there is to make box of wood or paper to store units, dices etc!  :-D

@sgtwiltan:

It’s really too bad you didn’t make the side piece so that it would fit into the inner portion of the main board where the map is.
You could even make a simple cover to keep the pieces inside from falling out all over the place. It’s a great idea you have there though.