WAR ROOM II - The Sequel

@panzerfreak
Sorry, hard copies only.

In a WWII context, I think that having a draw as a war goal is a concept that would only apply to the Axis, and that would only apply (depending on the game start date) after Germany and Japan had made the territorial gains that were in place by mid-1942: Western Europe, the western part of the USSR, and the Asia/Pacific territories which Japan initially overran. It can be argued that from this point onwards, the Axis could be satisfied by either defeating the Allies entirely (a win) or by simply hanging on indefinitely to what they’d conquered (a draw).

The Allies, on the other hand, could only be satisfied by winning. As Stalin said, the Axis powers weren’t going to jump into the abyss without being pushed. To the Allies, a draw would essentially have meant acknowledging that Germany and Japan has established a “new order” in Europe and Asia. Indeed, Japan’s overall strategy – if you can call it that – was the hopeful idea that the Americans would suffer some costly losses if they tried to attack Japan’s defensive perimeter, would lose their will to fight, and would simply walk away, leaving Japan in possession of its newly acquired marbles. That plan went out the window when Japan, to put it mildly, got the Americans really really angry at them by attacking Pearl Harbor. Germany had a somewhat similar goal of conquering the USSR roughly up to the Urals (the “A-A” line), digging in, and limiting itself from then on to bombing the Asian part of the USSR to keep it from making trouble. That plan went out the window when Germany failed to even get as far as Moscow.

Iv’e always felt that in the game axis has to win by a certain turn to win. Once you go be on a certain turn then your going into late 45 46 47 etc.
Victory city’s and or points seems to get a quicker out come in our games. If axis don’t have 30 points by end of any turn up to 10 rounds they lose. Now of course this may change based on better players. We usually can see if the axis will get 30 points on turn 10 or not or maybe 11.

Your probably looking at a bit different scenario.
Losing side

But then all players have to agree but the winning side will say we won but losing side got the end win.

Something to that affect ? But then game may drag on.

Sounds like a fun project.  The fundamental problem you’d have to solve, however, is the fact that the country names and – even more problematically – the country borders that existed historically in WWI were in some cases quite different from what they were in WWII.If you make them accurate for WWI, you’ll eventually end up in an alternate-history situation in which you’re fighting WWII on a WWI map with WWI powers as players.  It can also be argued that the political extremism of the 1920s and 1930s that eventually led to WWII was a direct result of the way WWI ended (specifically, the Versailles Treaty), and that if you alter the end of WWI then you alter the situation that eventually led to WWII.  That’s fine if working in an alternate-history environment is something you’re comfortable with; you simply have to be aware that you’re dealing with alternate history.

In terms of the map problem, perhaps the only option that would cover all the bases accurately, regardless of the political situation at any given moment, would be to use a simple map that is purely topographical rather than political in its territorial divisions.  A supplementary element could be to add overlays (drawn on large acetate sheets, or something similar) that provide political borders which can be adjusted from decade to decade.

Yes thats what I’m talking about. Design my own Battle Boards save to file and then get printed. Just need it were its protected from finger print smears and any other stuff.

Thank you YG and DK.

Game time this weekend, Axis won with Japs taking India, Pearl and Filips!  8-)

It does fit, u place the two pices on top of eachother (they are only 40 mm high, the man board is 50 mm outside = 42 mm inside). The space is 600x800x84 when folded, the two pices on top of eachother are 500x600x80. That leaves a 300x600x80 space and my plan there is to make box of wood or paper to store units, dices etc!  :-D

@sgtwiltan:

It’s really too bad you didn’t make the side piece so that it would fit into the inner portion of the main board where the map is.
You could even make a simple cover to keep the pieces inside from falling out all over the place. It’s a great idea you have there though.

Your collection and set up is truly awesome.