First draft 1914 map file

I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
CF362D52-269F-4480-8CBB-08139099138F.jpeg A9E12EA1-66EB-4671-86AC-68C62FD30AD5.jpeg 858DE1F2-030A-4D5A-93E4-70A7D1180ADB.jpeg 8F513EE0-DA37-4BA9-880E-4D5EF7BF431F.jpeg F0188165-757B-4CC1-BF67-5045832283C9.jpeg 2E3CD627-0D31-4121-ACF8-682F9F58A40B.jpeg

Ah, yet another good use for the coasters!

I was awarded the Customizer badge at some point unknown, but marked on my pictures post as to when I found out I was a recipient. There is a post somewhere on the forums that tells of the process and from what I recall one has to be nominated by someone to a moderator and there is some sort of review process. Here’s a link to the award discussion thread: https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/topic/24173/customizers-round-2

Glad you enjoy the pics and tips! We all inspire each other with our pictures, tips, and techniques, so keep sharing!

Has anyone played with the house rule that ignores the trench warfare? We like it playing more like the original? Also what other rules do you use to make the game more fun.

Nice work - Dare I ask how many hours you put into it? For interest’s sake.

I have made alterations, mostly to territory values along with adding a few new territories, to the Global 40 game to more accurately (as I believe) reflect the relative values of the given territories of the game map. Here is a list of my changes and/or additions;
United States (value 47)…… East US 20, Central US 12, West US 10, Alaska 2, Hawaii 1 & Philippines 2
Canada (value 11) …  NB & NS 1, Quebec 3, Ontario 3, A-S-M 2, British Columbia 2 & NWT (new territory north of A-S-M) 0.
ANZAC (value 6) … New Zealand 2, Queensland 1, New South Wales 2 & Victoria 1 (S. Aus, W. Aus & NT all now 0).
United Kingdom Europe (value 19) … Scotland 3, United Kingdom 6, Nigeria 1, Belgian Congo 1, Union of South Africa 2, Rhodesia 1, Tanganyika 1, Kenya 1, Anglo-Egyptian Sudan 1, Egypt 2 & Gold Coast, SW Africa & Trans-Jordan now 0.
France (value 19) … France 6, Normandy 2, South France 2, Algeria 1, Tunisia 1, Fr W Africa 1, Fr Cen Africa 1, Fr Equa Africa 1, Madagascar 1, Syria 1 & Fr Indo-china 2 (Morocco now 0).
Japan (value 26) … Japan 8, Okinawa 1, Iwo Jima 1, Korea 3, Formosa 1, Manchuria 3, Jehol 1, Shantung 2, Kiangsu 3, Kiangsi 1, Kwangsi 1 & Siam 1.
Germany (value 30) … Norway 1, Denmark 2, Hol-Bel 3, West Germany 9, G South Ger 3, Germany 5, Poland 3, Slo-Hun 2 & Romania 2.
United Kingdom (Pacific) (value 19) … West India 3, South India 1 (new)* , India 6, Burma 1, Malaya 3, Borneo 2 & Kwangtung(HK) 3 & Shan State now 0.
Italy (value 10) … North Italy 5, South Italy 3, Libya 1 & Ethiopia 1 (Albania now 0).
Dutch East Indies (value 7) … Java 4, Sumatra 2, Celebes 1 , Dutch New Guinea & Moluccas - a new territory, both 0.
Soviet Union (value 37) … Russia 6, Ukraine 3, West Ukraine 3, Novgorod 3, Baltic States 2, East Poland 2, Belarus 2, Rostov 2, Volgograd 2, Caucasus 2, Smolensk 1, Bryansk 1, Vologda 1, Samara 1, Tambov 1, Kazachstan 1, Novosibirsk 1, Yenisey 1, Yakut 1 & Amur 1. All other territories are now 0.
Neutral States (value 39) … Mexico 1, SE Mexico 2, Central America 1, West Indies 1, Venezuela 2, Columbia 1 (new), Peru 1 (new), Chile 2, Argentina 2, Brazil 3, Finland 1, Sweden 3, Eire 1 (new), Spain 2, Portugal 1, Angola 1, Mozambique 1, Saudi Arabia 1, Iraq 2, Turkey 3, Greece 2, Bulgaria 1, Yugoslavia 2 & Persia 2.

Counting TUV, expected losses after a variety of round 1 openers, KJF and KGF both need some viability the additional russian units are necessary for an even remote possibility of KJF, assuming a 6-9 bid for the allies.

A heavily stacked axis map needed more to it going on many fronts. Kept the fun and minus the complete devastation. UK can sink Japan fleet by east indies with a sub bid and an infantry on egypt, the KJF becomes viable, at the same time, japan quickly catches up in income and can knock out india if it gets no support.

Lots of Russian players like to do ukraine, the added artillery smooths it out, Germany has plenty to counter attack no problem, nothing drastic. Taking london with tech roll LRA on round 1 non sense is out of the picture, tech players rejoice, as if LRA is germany is not devastating enough, plus even a carrier in baltic seazone and air on france… forces a huge turtle buy from uk, mitigating some of that still makes the baltic fleet thing strong just not so overwhelming. Basically all the germany strategies need some kind of drawback or investment. Like you should have to work for Africa if you want it instead of just getting it. The high risk high reward battles still there, because it comes under the assumption of an allies bid, even if you play without one there is still something for the allies to look forward to.

One of the key reasons this map is seldom played is because the allies really have nothing to look forward to for the first 3 rounds. So this just addresses that issue, it is still an axis favored map, the allies still have to make something happen, it is just they now have the tools to try to do something.

The germany destroyer may get removed, I added it to make germany 1 a bit more dynamic instead of linear. Players would also send 2 subs to sink usa transports, baltic subs to sink uk bship, go for egypt or protect bship at gibraltar, it is all the same stuff, now you can yolo attack usa and have a pretty even fight, block usa from landing africa, 2 sub sink uk dd trans and 1 dd to hit the cruiser or use dd to sink bship sub from russia, there is more decision making.

TL:DR More decision making for the axis instead of “this is the best option so I got to do this or I can risk this purchase if it does not work out oh well there will be no punishment anyway.”

I know HBG has a WWI game that uses a full world map. It is in the development phase, but still worth checking out:

http://www.historicalboardgaming.com/Global-War-1914-Axis-Allies-WW1-Variant-Map_p_728.html

@Imperious:

You can’t teach this because the learning curve is high for Illustrator CS, You just have to do it and struggle and it may take 10 years to be really good. I do suggest NEVER USE PAINT SHOP PRO. Their is nothing “pro” about it. It will destroy your computer from day one. Also, to save a few hundred bucks, buy an educational version ( its the same) using a student ID, you can just join the school and not even register for classes, just to get the ID and buy the program in the student store–make sure they have it in stock first.

You could register for a night class in basic Photoshop and Illustrator which would get you that student ID card and an introduction to the software.