First Time painting units/starting my own paintkrieg

@leebear

That’ll do it - and after you have used your playing pieces for a while, you’ll see if you need to spray a new layer of matt varnish.

2-3 layers - each layer thinly sprayed - and dry 24 hours between each layer.

You units will last a lifetime:+1:

@monroe Actually I hear that a whole turn equates to 6 months for A&A…

Part 4: Starting the ships, adding decals to the tanks, skin tones on the soldiers

Today spent some time adding paint to the sprayed ships, including painting the water jettisons on the subs black (this was very tricky and ended up looking a little sloppy). Advice for painting the jettisons: toothpicks are not small enough! If you do use toothpicks, you’ll have to dab a dot of black for each tiny jettison.

The battleships were a bit easier, and painting the decks, bridge, and smoke stacks were all done in silver. I plan on adding the final grey coat last after the deck and stacks/bridge dry. I experimented with how to add the national emblem, and will probably opt for a white background with a red dot on the bow of the ship. In the future I may do that with the rear end of the ship.

I painted the tranny smoke stacks silver and added a white background for the emblem on the destroyers. All in all, the Japanese navy is coming along nicely.

The armor is pretty much done. I added a white flag to the front side of the armor and will be adding the red dots later. For the aircraft, I’ll be adding a red band around the rear part of the plane. I was debating between sky blue and red and may alternate just for some variety.

The soldiers got some skin! And I just want to say that adding the paint alone brings out the contours of their facial features in an excellent manner on their own. I may add a touch of black to certain areas of the face but that will be a last step. The next step will be panting their uniforms, rifles, and helmets.

After all this is done, I will be spray painting the japanese bombers white, the aircraft carrier black, and then will add the details to those. The Japanese are about 55% done all in all and I’m pleased with the results so far even if they do look a bit amateurish. Stay tuned.

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Thanks for all the responses, folks - exactly what I needed to hear.

Make up your own House Rule……here are some ideas

Recruitment Center (this one just happens to be a Nazi)
-The ability to build Reg. Infantry at non-factory territories
-Territories must have a value of (1)
-Only (1) Center per Territory
-Cost: 9
-Movement: N/A
-Build of (1) Reg. Infantry
-Can be Burned, or removed round before capture
-Can be Captured and be used
-Can be Bomb and unable to produce Infantry till repaired.  Cost of Repair is (3)IPC

These will be on my Shapeways Store Soon
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/war-game-miniature

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I have seen lots of people here use acrylics and I have on occasion. Most of my paints are enamels though. I find that is stays wet longer (which is a good thing) and doesn’t clump up nearly as much on your brush. I also use enamels in my airbrush. I find that enamels are actually much easier to clean than acrylics. While acrylics are water soluble, they don’t just dissolve, especially if already dry. It involves a great deal of scrubbing and scraping. With enamels, all you need is some mineral spirits cleaner and it takes the paint right off with very little effort. Cleaning acrylic paint out of my airbrush was hell the first time I did it… never using acrylics in there again. In terms of the finish, I can only assume that enamels hold up better to bumps and scrapes than acrylic paint does.

Someone once asked if enamels, by default, have a glossy finish to them. They do not, as long as you are using flat enamels, which seem to be the standard. I use flats and they have an excellent, non-shiny finish. I feel like enamel colors are a little deeper too, on the whole, but I suppose it depends on the brand of acrylic you use. Vallejo seems to be a popular choice for acrylics. I use predominantly Model Masters (Testors) enamels. In general, I would just said to find a brand you like to work with and produces the results you like. Don’t buy super cheap paint… you will get the results you pay for.

Good luck!

@John:

I don’t know what everyone else likes, but I like videos. For example, you showing everyone how to put these I 94 decals on or how you do those awesome dry brush techniques, you are always talking about, or the whole process of a painted piece, from the time you prime it to the finishing coat, including how to place the decals on.

Any of those would be cool videos! :-D

Good to know! I have never tried videos, as I don’t have the camera skills (or the camera, for that matter) to film close up like that. I have friends around who have the equipment though, so I might give it a shot.

@jwo1984:

Hey spitfire… I liked the layout of yor original painting tutorial… With stages photos befores and afters with descriptions under each photo and stage.  I would like too see some face washes you use on infantry men. And some washes you use for a variety of infantry moulds. Even a gallery too showcase some of your personal playing pieces would be cool!

I will definitely do a tutorial on washes! I’m planning on doing another in depth infantry tutorial, so that will feature the face washes you’re talking about.

Awesome!  Ready-for-the-desert scheme, sweet.