First Time painting units/starting my own paintkrieg

Here’s another pic in dimmer light, which is a better comparison to the before picture above.

The silver pops nicely. Before, in the same lighting situation, I couldn’t see most of the border lines at all.

I used the Edding 5300 silver acrylic paint marker with a 1-2 mm tip
The silver seems to really catch what little light there is in the room.

As the paint the marker ran low of paint it was harder and harder to control, so I reccomend just stopping and using a fresh paint marker if this happens. A few of the last lines I did are fatter than I would like because of this.
But the overal result is a huge improvement.

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@Phelan-Kell
Thanks for the great reply! I am hoping to add decals to each as well, so thanks for that tip too. Sounds like I definitely do need to do a bit more homework on this before I get started. I want to do it right!

Here’s my collection of Russian sculpts from both A&A and HBG:

Baltic Timper Ship (G40):

Srednyaya Class Submarine (G40):

Gnevny Class Destroyer (G40):

Kirov Class Cruiser (G40):

Kostromitinova Class Aircraft Carrier (AA41):

Gangut Class Battleship (G40):

Yak-3 (G40) and I-16 (HBG) Fighters:

Il-2 (G40) and Su-2 (HBG) Tactical Bombers:

Pe-8 Strategic Bomber (G40) and IL-4 Medium Bomber (HBG):

Yak-6 Transport Aircraft (HBG):

Russian Infantry (G40) and Early War Russian Infantry (HBG):

85 mm Antiaircraft Artillery (G40), 152 mm Artillery (G40), 122mm M-30 Artillery (HBG), Katyusha Self-Propelled Artillery (HBG):

Zis-42 Mechanized Infantry (G40), BA-6 Armored Car (HBG), Gaz AAA Truck (HBG), Gaz-60 Mechanized Infantry:

T-34 Tank (G40), JS-2 Tank (AA41), Su-76 Tank Destroyer (HBG), T-26 Light Tank (HBG), T-34/76 Medium Tank (HBG), KV-2 Heavy Tank (HBG):

A&A vs HBG T-34 Tanks:

Make up your own House Rule……here are some ideas

Recruitment Center (this one just happens to be a Nazi)
-The ability to build Reg. Infantry at non-factory territories
-Territories must have a value of (1)
-Only (1) Center per Territory
-Cost: 9
-Movement: N/A
-Build of (1) Reg. Infantry
-Can be Burned, or removed round before capture
-Can be Captured and be used
-Can be Bomb and unable to produce Infantry till repaired.  Cost of Repair is (3)IPC

These will be on my Shapeways Store Soon
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/war-game-miniature

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Thanks everyone for your replies, I finished last night. Really happy with how these turned out.

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I have seen lots of people here use acrylics and I have on occasion. Most of my paints are enamels though. I find that is stays wet longer (which is a good thing) and doesn’t clump up nearly as much on your brush. I also use enamels in my airbrush. I find that enamels are actually much easier to clean than acrylics. While acrylics are water soluble, they don’t just dissolve, especially if already dry. It involves a great deal of scrubbing and scraping. With enamels, all you need is some mineral spirits cleaner and it takes the paint right off with very little effort. Cleaning acrylic paint out of my airbrush was hell the first time I did it… never using acrylics in there again. In terms of the finish, I can only assume that enamels hold up better to bumps and scrapes than acrylic paint does.

Someone once asked if enamels, by default, have a glossy finish to them. They do not, as long as you are using flat enamels, which seem to be the standard. I use flats and they have an excellent, non-shiny finish. I feel like enamel colors are a little deeper too, on the whole, but I suppose it depends on the brand of acrylic you use. Vallejo seems to be a popular choice for acrylics. I use predominantly Model Masters (Testors) enamels. In general, I would just said to find a brand you like to work with and produces the results you like. Don’t buy super cheap paint… you will get the results you pay for.

Good luck!

Thanks for the quick reply guys. :-) ill check him out

Fantastic!  Especially love seeing the whole army together - the Ruskie horde!