1940 Global table & painted pieces

After reading the threads, I figured maybe this way would be best to find an artist who can help. I’m looking for someone to help our monastery finish it’s customization of AA Global 40 and possible help, with what is necessary, on the pieces for Global War 1936…… the more intricate, the more monks like games like this. We have lots of pieces that are donated and pretty interesting. We would be more than willing to give the leftovers away. The “Ratte” Landkreuzer P. 1000 tank is my favorite. We have 3

I don’t know about yall, but I’ve been trying to reduce the amount of separate game aids all over the area. Siredblood’s AA50 map is a work of art and took the liberty of adding IPCs and National objectives to the map. Not sure if it’s too cluttered now-- maybe the Natl objectives should be between the IPCs and map. What do you think? First almost perfectly on a 6’x4’ map.

[Artistic credit goes to SiredBlood and BigWatcher]

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Also slowly working on making my own pieces and designs for my new resin printer. I’m going to open up an online store for new pieces, boards, rules, and other items in the near future.

An example here is how we fill this one up.
I was formerly playing as Germany, so below is my movements.
For sea zone, we use the same number (Eg from sea zone 93>99)
If transport, we will write 93 > S france(pick up 2 troops) >96 (disembark on Tobruk)
For land, we will just write the name of land (from a to b)
Next we will be marking the troops to move.
If it’s all units in the land to move, we just write “all”
Adding the concept of bidding, you’d get lots of fun when you either evade an attack, or managed to “pin” your enemies.
Hope this helps.

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@cavestone I also use vallejo paints. The key question here is are you brush painting, or using an airbrush, or both?

The Vallejo paints have a “Model Air” line that comes pre-thinned. You can buy a thinning product (from them) to add to the “Model Color” series paints, which are the exact same thing, just more concentrated and thicker.

If you’ve never used an airbrush, its a bit finicky–it requires regular cleaning and a without a good brush and compressor the paint will flow very inconsistently. The process will be very frustrating unless you use the pre-thinned paints because the brush can only blow paint that is within a certain set of thickness parameters that are difficult to achieve, especially if you are trying to mix the air in the brush’s reserve or in small quantities. That’s why having copies of both Model Air and Model Color is fine by me–unlike Warhammer 40K I’m using primarily earthy colors, greens, dunkelgelb and dunkelgrau… other AFV and camoflage colors and so i don’t need a collection of primary or bright colors.

But I recommend it. The airbrush creates a sublime, beautiful layer and slight mix variations can be used to create shadows, grades, etc. Then you go back over with your brush, adding highlights, lines, details. Then, back over again with a drybrushing…then back to the airbrush to blast Flory Wash all over it.

Can’t see your photos, you can’t post photos until you have a certain post count. I wouldn’t use water to thin paints, they are water soluble but the mix and viscosity is all wrong (though water is obv. cheap and easy to clean up)

As for oil-based paints, these require thinner to clean up, they are much more difficult to drybrush with and are not used for airbrushing. The days of the old testors paints is long behind us–even apple barrel paints are easier to work with and cheaper. The early painting methods were much more about glomming thick layers of paint onto lead miniatures and the modern approach with water based paint and a series of different techniques creates much better results.

I love it!  I especially love the plexiglass over the board!

I’m looking for digital mapmakers and digital publishing enthusiasts to help me develop a new map and professional-looking set of rules for an Axis & Allies homebrew set of rules. Any takers?

Very nice