1940 Global table & painted pieces

@Windrunner21
I forgot about Micro Mark.
All kinds of supplies and tools there.

Cheers

I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
CF362D52-269F-4480-8CBB-08139099138F.jpeg A9E12EA1-66EB-4671-86AC-68C62FD30AD5.jpeg 858DE1F2-030A-4D5A-93E4-70A7D1180ADB.jpeg 8F513EE0-DA37-4BA9-880E-4D5EF7BF431F.jpeg F0188165-757B-4CC1-BF67-5045832283C9.jpeg 2E3CD627-0D31-4121-ACF8-682F9F58A40B.jpeg

@CorporalClegg Thank for your reply.
Yes I did see those, but i thought I didn’t need two separate versions and I am very fond of your layout. So if you one decide to make the last 4 cards to play global, and you would like to share please let me know :-)

To me, that’s the same concept of using the chassis of a Lamborghini with the body of a Yugo.  A Lamborghini isn’t just about the engine that drives it, people love it because it’s how it LOOKS.

The same thing can be said of Axis and Allies.  Maybe the body of a Yugo is more practical to some, but I wouldn’t bother playing Axis and Allies at all, if I felt I was sitting in a Yugo.

If you don’t know what a Yugo is:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MknuRE2Bcg

Built in Soviet-bloc Yugoslavia, the Yugo had the distinct feeling of something assembled at gunpoint. Interestingly, in a car where “carpet” was listed as a standard feature, the Yugo had a rear-window defroster, reportedly to keep your hands warm while you pushed it…

@Maddog77:

@pfc_pander:

Love the M-1 Carbine, nice touch!

It’s fully functional too. My Dad carried one in Korea (He was an artillery man during the war) I have all the attachments for it (30 round mags, bayonette, heat shield, oil tube, etc.) It’s a very fun small caliber weapon to shoot. I like how it adds to the whole war room atmosphere so it just has to be displayed on the wall. I keep a trigger lock on it because I have young children running about and the rest of my hunting rifles are locked up in the safe. If anyone comes across a nice WWII propaganda poster or gadget for sale (from any country) please let me know. I’m really ramping up my collection.

My grandfather was in the 40th Infantry Division in Korea and he told me a story about how carbines were a prized weapon of choice in the infantry. Guys from other units had them and it got around that you could get your hands on one if you went to the showers and waited for a guy who had one to step into the shower. Then they would just take his gun.

He ended up doing just that.

The best approach I’ve seen was a friend who cut his factories in half with a hacksaw. Large factories are majors, while the smaller, halved factories are minors.

I’ve got mine painted three different colors. Bought a lot of 50 for a few dollars from a vendor at Nashcon in May 2016.

Before Nashcon, I used red Monopoly hotels for the major factories and the green hotels for minor factories. I still like to use the green ones every now and again because I think they’re nifty.

jwo1984 and others,

––This thread shows the SHAPEWAY Capitals, Air, and Naval Bases that were designed by Ebard. Enjoy.

Tall Paul

Guys,

@coachofmany:

very nice!
**––I’m glad you enjoyed them. Lord knows I CERTAINLY ENJOY HBG’S PRODUCTS!

Tall Paul**