1940 Global table & painted pieces

Does anyone have a pdf download map of axis and allies global 1940 2nd edition? young grasshoppers is all white( no map), and imperious leaders is 1 piece. I need to print this in 8 1/2 x 11 sheets of paper. Size no more than 35"x 5’,6""

pdf map global 40

Japanese A&A Pacific 2nd Edition Color Match
Hey All.
If you are looking to match the default color for the Japanese, try Vallejo Liquid Acrylic 804 Transparent Orange and Model color 140 Flat Brown mixed 30 to 1 sprayed on an undercoat of 131 Orange Brown. It’s a dead match.
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Sweet, thanks man. I’ll give it a shot!

I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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@AlphaKappa:

I don’t like the large size of the OOB Dauntless tactical bomber piece.  I am considering replacing them with the HBG P-47 Thunderbolt or Helldiver.  What are the sizes of these pieces?   The P-47 looks bigger than a typical fighter.  Would it work as a tac?

I have the HBG P-47 fighters… they are the same size as the OOB fighters… by comparison, they are bigger than the HBG P-51, which is actually smaller than OOB fighters.  If you’re expecting the HBG P-47 to be as big as OOB Tac Bombers, you’ll be disappointed.

To me, that’s the same concept of using the chassis of a Lamborghini with the body of a Yugo.  A Lamborghini isn’t just about the engine that drives it, people love it because it’s how it LOOKS.

The same thing can be said of Axis and Allies.  Maybe the body of a Yugo is more practical to some, but I wouldn’t bother playing Axis and Allies at all, if I felt I was sitting in a Yugo.

If you don’t know what a Yugo is:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MknuRE2Bcg

Built in Soviet-bloc Yugoslavia, the Yugo had the distinct feeling of something assembled at gunpoint. Interestingly, in a car where “carpet” was listed as a standard feature, the Yugo had a rear-window defroster, reportedly to keep your hands warm while you pushed it…

I keep my games separate, however I add pieces to them from HBG.

It does fit, u place the two pices on top of eachother (they are only 40 mm high, the man board is 50 mm outside = 42 mm inside). The space is 600x800x84 when folded, the two pices on top of eachother are 500x600x80. That leaves a 300x600x80 space and my plan there is to make box of wood or paper to store units, dices etc!  :-D

@sgtwiltan:

It’s really too bad you didn’t make the side piece so that it would fit into the inner portion of the main board where the map is.
You could even make a simple cover to keep the pieces inside from falling out all over the place. It’s a great idea you have there though.