1940 Global table & painted pieces

@Young:

I’m deep into trying to get my custom card decks released right now, but I will certainly look into it.

Yeah I use your first card deck without the house roules for my games.  :-D

@mentok27:

Man now I wish I had some new stuff to share. But I didn’t finish any pieces  I started recently…. I did do quite a few Hungarian pieces but I was waiting till I did the Air Force as wel before I snapped a pic.

I lost a lot of time recently on the battlefield 1 beta.

No problem, you have inspired me to get back to painting. Due to health reasons, I haven’t done anything in a year, but I’m about to least, do some small jobs, here and there.

Can’t wait to see your Hungarian pieces. :-)

Cheers,

John

I have made alterations, mostly to territory values along with adding a few new territories, to the Global 40 game to more accurately (as I believe) reflect the relative values of the given territories of the game map. Here is a list of my changes and/or additions;
United States (value 47)…… East US 20, Central US 12, West US 10, Alaska 2, Hawaii 1 & Philippines 2
Canada (value 11) …  NB & NS 1, Quebec 3, Ontario 3, A-S-M 2, British Columbia 2 & NWT (new territory north of A-S-M) 0.
ANZAC (value 6) … New Zealand 2, Queensland 1, New South Wales 2 & Victoria 1 (S. Aus, W. Aus & NT all now 0).
United Kingdom Europe (value 19) … Scotland 3, United Kingdom 6, Nigeria 1, Belgian Congo 1, Union of South Africa 2, Rhodesia 1, Tanganyika 1, Kenya 1, Anglo-Egyptian Sudan 1, Egypt 2 & Gold Coast, SW Africa & Trans-Jordan now 0.
France (value 19) … France 6, Normandy 2, South France 2, Algeria 1, Tunisia 1, Fr W Africa 1, Fr Cen Africa 1, Fr Equa Africa 1, Madagascar 1, Syria 1 & Fr Indo-china 2 (Morocco now 0).
Japan (value 26) … Japan 8, Okinawa 1, Iwo Jima 1, Korea 3, Formosa 1, Manchuria 3, Jehol 1, Shantung 2, Kiangsu 3, Kiangsi 1, Kwangsi 1 & Siam 1.
Germany (value 30) … Norway 1, Denmark 2, Hol-Bel 3, West Germany 9, G South Ger 3, Germany 5, Poland 3, Slo-Hun 2 & Romania 2.
United Kingdom (Pacific) (value 19) … West India 3, South India 1 (new)* , India 6, Burma 1, Malaya 3, Borneo 2 & Kwangtung(HK) 3 & Shan State now 0.
Italy (value 10) … North Italy 5, South Italy 3, Libya 1 & Ethiopia 1 (Albania now 0).
Dutch East Indies (value 7) … Java 4, Sumatra 2, Celebes 1 , Dutch New Guinea & Moluccas - a new territory, both 0.
Soviet Union (value 37) … Russia 6, Ukraine 3, West Ukraine 3, Novgorod 3, Baltic States 2, East Poland 2, Belarus 2, Rostov 2, Volgograd 2, Caucasus 2, Smolensk 1, Bryansk 1, Vologda 1, Samara 1, Tambov 1, Kazachstan 1, Novosibirsk 1, Yenisey 1, Yakut 1 & Amur 1. All other territories are now 0.
Neutral States (value 39) … Mexico 1, SE Mexico 2, Central America 1, West Indies 1, Venezuela 2, Columbia 1 (new), Peru 1 (new), Chile 2, Argentina 2, Brazil 3, Finland 1, Sweden 3, Eire 1 (new), Spain 2, Portugal 1, Angola 1, Mozambique 1, Saudi Arabia 1, Iraq 2, Turkey 3, Greece 2, Bulgaria 1, Yugoslavia 2 & Persia 2.

Very nice indeed.

I keep my games separate, however I add pieces to them from HBG.

Has anyone ever created a WWI era global map that shows the entire world as opposed to just the European, Africa, and Eastern Seaboard of the US?

Thanks LHoffman,

Your appreciation is my inspiration… because I refuse to use a sheet of glass, my research has lead me to a material called styrene (google it) which is a type of plastic sheet that can be directly printed on. All indications point to this method being the last alternative to glass and although it cost around $240, it looks to be my best option. Even after flushing $300 so far in a crappy print, and installation complications, I’m happy with this new direction if it turns out the way I’ve been told it will. Basically it’s flexible plastic, so it should lie flat without air pockets getting trapped, and because it doesn’t get laminated, the colors should be slightly brighter. If it is sensitive to scratching than there is a clear film sheet by 3M I can look into, that’s where I’m at right now.

@Albert:

@Spitfire38:

I have looked at I-94’s decals and thought about it… the only ones I have trouble with are the Russian stars. I enjoy hand painting the insignia and I feel like it makes it look more uniform when it’s all paint, but like you said, it would definitely save some time  :lol:

Well you could save some effort there as Moscow ordered upper wing stars to be painted out on the eve of the German invasion……plain green was also changed to green with a black disruptive camo pattern   http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/index.html

I didn’t know that they painted over the top-wing stars. Thanks for sharing! If I were to paint them again, I’d probably leave them on or use decals, just for easy recognition on the game board, but I like knowing what was historically accurate.