1942 Battle Board - Game Aids - IPC Chart

@innohub https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/topic/32932/a-a-2nd-edition-custom-battle-board/3

scroll to the comments to get the image.

One sub point that Argo didn’t mention is that if you commit the transports to the attack, and the naval battle fails, that the whole surviving group retreats together, with the land units stuck on the transports until the next turn.  This makes them very vulnerable to being destroyed, which makes this type of combined sea/amphibious attack high stakes.

This is also why you have to commit to the battles at the same time; not only does it keep the flow of play clean but it also forces you to analyze all the risks you are taking at the same time.  Reshuffling your unit allocations in other planned battles after the first combats are seen is also a no-no, though in a friendly game it is ok to make some revisions.

Still, since you can choose the order you fight battles in, this can be helpful.  You can see the outcome of 1-2 big battles, and then know whether the smaller battles are worth fighting to the bitter end, whether its more important to take the territory vs just clear it.  You do have to fight at least 1 round of combat for every declared battle, my point is that gaining certain information as to the outcome of one important battle can be instructive of the need to fight other battles to their bitter conclusion or withdraw early.

We fight in this order, not sure if its required in all versions by the letter of the rules, but it can make the game have a cleaner flow…

Declare all combats, unit buy is sealed and cannot be changed after we begin to do;

strategic bombings in any order then sea combats without land element in any order sea combats with a landing in any order land combats in any order don’t do any noncoms zero zilch none until now because it keeps the separation of turns and moved units cleaner I realize its tempting…

lots of teams only have 1-2 combats to declare per turn so focusing on doing all your combats first (and ignoring units that will noncom) is also an easy way to keep your mind focused on one task at a time;  things that fight get committed first and everything else can be contemplated at length after combats are resolved.

I ordered 16xWhite infantry, 5xWhite Stuart Light Tanks, 4xWhite P-40s from HBG to represent possible neutral countries with varying setups… I’ll toss them in an organizer and have them handy for when/if I decide to implement some Neutral nation rules for 1942 SE.  I wanted a color that didn’t look remotely close to any other nation for neutrals.

EDIT:
and then I went back and realized they had a “neutral nation set” and I ordered a couple of those… ugh… some things aren’t listed on every page they should be! lolz

I have got a 20mb scan of the OOB map (that is, scale 1:1). The problem with this scan is, that it is too dark, as I was told. Unfortunately, I didn’t know that when the file was produced and when it came down to work with the scan file it was too late to compalin about the quality at the copy shop. However, if you are interested, I can send you a link to download the scan.

We usually play AA50th, but …
For 42.2, if we bother to worry about balance, we use a standard bid format (if everyone agrees) based on starting IPC’s (I’ll play axis at +X IPC’s to start … whoever uses the lowest +IPC bid plays the axis).

I like them to start with Russia. Tanks and infantry are much easier to deal with than with all the units like Japan.

Start them off by saying, “Bill is your ally. You really need to listen to him until you get a feel for things. And that will take about 2 games.” The first game is always a wash. Always tell the new guy that the first game is just for fun. Because, really, they need to get through it to get an idea of the end game.

Also, I like to play 2 rounds and then reset. Then play Russia for at least 2 games, but preferably 3. It’s up to them at that point.

And it’s important to guide them while letting them make decisions. Keep things simple. New guys don’t need to know the intracacies of every unit type during the first turn. Set them up for the standard buy, and move on with life. Tell them what moves to make and let them roll the dice (because until they understand how combat works, they can’t understand what units to commit to battle, or buy, or even where to place them).

But again, I think it’s important to keep things simple. Don’t explain EVERY battle the other players fight. Of course, use the other battles as teaching moments. Show them the rule book and show them how the rules apply. “See, it says here that enemy subs can be ignored if there are no enemy surface ships.” And, “See how fighters start their movement independent of their carrier. See how they can move three spaces, fight, and then back one, and land on their carrier?” Just don’t pile on rule after rule.

And for several games at least, don’t let them make stupid mistakes. It’s no fun to win because they didn’t understand that bombers can fligh across the US and attack un-escorted carriers in the middle of the Pacific.

Hi again. Bombers can do Strategic Bombing against a Factory and damage them. This makes placing units harder or more expensive.
Battleships and Cruisers can aid in an amphibious assault; that is called a Bombardment.

Aniversary Is cool to have but other than having Italy I just wasn’t all that stoaked about it. The sculpts in mine were really bad in alot of ways I ranted about this along with others when it came out . 1942 Second Ed is awesome and with a bit of tweaking you can probably get a better experience than AA50. HBG and FMG have a set of Italian minis and roundels you could easily use. As far as balancing goes you could simply combine Germany and Italy and simply use your Italian pieces in place of Germans where it calls for them or use some house rules.

You can get the Aniversary rules too but I’m not sure where.

While I might dodge some stones being thrown here AA50, was not a favorite of mine. For what it costs to get a copy it’s not worth it. There are a ton of threads on here as to how to make your own version of AA50.

Personally the attraction of this game for me was to have the game in my AA collection. I have all the board based AA games except for Guadal Canal and AAE40.