Time Lapse video of Axis & Allies 1942 2nd Ed.

@Jaybird Out of stock when I checked just now. Thank you for trying to notify me. I don’t know why I got this notification so late.

If I understand correctly your rephrased question, you want to know if it’s possible to play an A&A board game (like A&A 1942) using the large-scale pre-painted models that are used in these product lines…

A&A Miniatures (Original)
A&A Naval Miniatures
A&A Air Force Miniatures

…rather than by using the very small unpainted plastic sculpts that come in the board game itself.  The short answer is no.  The A&A board games are designed to be played with large numbers of tiny sculpts placed on a map board.  The so-called “A&A miniatures” games use models that are gigantic in size compared to the ones in the board games, and there’s no way that they’d fit on an A&A map board.  Besides, you’d need to buy dozens or even hundreds of these “A&A miniatures” to have enough units to play an A&A board game, which would be fantastically expensive – assuming you could even find them on the market, because they’re a discontinued product line.

In principle, assuming that you owned the required dozens (or hundreds) of “A&A miniatures”, you could theoretically use them to play an A&A board game by keeping all the “A&A miniatures” in labeled groups off the board and representing them on the game map by smaller labeled markers or tiny sculpts…but in essence that would bring you right back to playing the board games with tiny sculpts – which is how they’re meant to be played in the first place.

Exactly! It was one those games where after round one that you knew you had a big uphill battle ahead of you lol.

I’m a big believer in paper money! I used those same AA50 bills for a while, until a got the HBG cash.
Look at those classic factories!

Great video man  :-D

Beautiful Ruskie bomber! How giant she is haha. Genius

I’ve played about 30-40 games, and won against some other pretty experienced players. Axis is favored on this map. My personal view is that a bid of around 7-11 is fair among experienced players. This is a newer game, so it’s not surprising that people haven’t come up with an exact amount.

Among beginning players, this bid probably needs to be bigger because players don’t recognize deadzones and leave pieces in the open. Germany has many more offensive pieces than Russia, and Moscow is at serious risk of falling early if Russia loses a stack. This is less true if Germany loses a stack because 1. germany starts with more pieces (compared to Russia), and 2. UK and US aren’t a threat until round 4.

There’s already great threads on bid placement to have the most impact. I won’t go into depth, but inf in cauc, karelia, egypt ; uk sub off egypt or india are likely have the most impact per IPC bid. Among beginning players, I would probably give uk 1 inf in egypt and ~6 infantry for russia in moscow. That’s my suggestion for a dynamic game among beginners of approximate skill.

An IC is damaged until repaired, regardless of ownership

Because I don’t have enough time to play Global.

I like to have an historical style A&A.
Convoys rules are interesting for representing the economical effect on UK of U-Boats warfare ETO and on Japan of USA subs warfare PTO.
It is an interesting alternative to SBR.
Subs can be useful outside direct naval battle.

I put some HR and new units in 1942.2 (like antisub Escort Carrier, mechanized infantry, TacBombers) because it is a smaller scale than Global but still complex.

When I have only 2 or 3 hours with friends, we play 1941.
But it is not a game intended to have HR because even OOB rules from 1942 can ruined the balance.
We play it OOB rule only.

@Canuck12:

Thanks for the hard work DJ! I read the forums but love the articles too ;)

Any official word yet on whether Honalulu is a VC or not? Book says no, map says yes. I have heard 2 different stories now about which to trust.

Ditto!  I’m hoping there is at least an official word on this before the game arrives, preferably a FAQ. :)