Global Map, High ress and with starting pieces on!

I always treated starting money as separate from income in my head. In this game the rules states that you should use the “starting income list” to take starting money. If i remember correctly, there have been versions of axis where some powers have started with less money than their starting income.

@Patchman123:

@knp7765:

Yeah, I’ve gone kind of piece crazy myself. I have a specific set of pieces for each nation in Global 40 I call my gaming sets. Here is what comprises each nation set:
100 Infantry
50 Artillery
50 Mechanized Infantry
50 Tanks
40 Anti-Aircraft Artillery
40 Fighters
30 Tactical Bombers
30 Strategic Bombers
40 Transports
40 Submarines
40 Destroyers
30 Cruisers
20 Battleships
20 Aircraft Carriers
100 Control Markers
And that is just OOB units! The only exception is China, but they still have 100 OOB Infantry units. I also have some HBG units for China for artillery, tanks and fighters (some house rules allow China to have tanks).
To get these totals, I actually got several copies of the game when they came out and cannibalized them for pieces. I was able to sell off extras which helped me make back some of the money I spent, but it was still pretty pricy. 
On top of this, I have huge collections of HBG’s sets in just about every color available. This part is really silly on my part because I pretty much use the Olive Drab for US, Dark Grey for Germany, Burnt Orange for Japan, Maroon for Russia. Basically the OOB colors. So all of those other colors, like the Axis Minors, Neutral sets, US Supplement for Allies and alternate colors for the Japanese Supplement and Expansion sets just basically sit there in their containers. I keep thinking I will use them in trying out the HBG 1939 Global variant because it has all these little countries and you can use all the variant colors to represent them, but I never get around to doing so. My group simply prefers Global 40.
When I think back on how much I have invested in all these game pieces, it almost makes me sick. I enjoy my games and it’s a fun little hobby, but there is such a thing as too much.
Obviously having such large sets is not necessary. You can always use chips which in some cases you simply have to because of space limitations on the board. I hope you are able to find your balance. However, I must agree with YG, the pieces in a single game are simply not enough.

How many PER game, NOT total. What I mean by total is counting Europe 1940 Sec. Ed. and Pacific 1940 Sec. Ed separately, instead of as one game.

You can calm down - that posting is 3 and 1/2 years old and was just showing off how much money he’d wasted on extra pieces how many extra units he had for playing A&A.

There’s a Patchman123 on BGG who asked similar questions earlier this week - I answered the main questions he asked there. Assuming Patchman123 on A&A.org is the same person, I answered your question there and to help out the forum I’ll answer the same question here:

@midnight_reaper:

@Patchman123:

Could I please have an inventory on how many pieces there are with Europe 1940 First Edition and Europe 1940 Second Edition for all the countries involved in the game, such as France, United Kingdom, Italy, United States,Germany, and the Soviet Union?

I noticed that when I was selling Axis & Allies 1942 First Edition from 2009, that some Axis & Allies pieces from other games have been mixed in.

Could please have an EXACT count on how many pieces there are supposed to be in these games?

Exactly how many pieces are in all the editions of Axis & Allies from 1981-2017?

I am trying to sort my game out.

Let me point you at some online resources to sort things out. First, do note that some pieces are only in the First Edition, some only in the Second Edition. This post from axisandallies.org discuss which pieces changed between editions: www.axisandallies.org/p/whats-new-in-axis-allies-pacific-1940-and-europe-1940-second-editions/

That said, here is a listing from the Harris Game Design forums that lists what comes in a copy of Europe 1940, First Edition (well, both Europe and Pacific, but that will get you to Europe…): http://www.harrisgamedesign.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=18469

And here is a forum post from axisandallies.org that lists what comes in a copy of Europe 1940, Second Edition (well, both Europe and Pacific, but that will get you to Europe…): https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=30066.0

-Midnight_Reaper

Source: https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1943468/number-pieces-europe-1940-first-edition-and-europe

What are your further questions?

-Midnight_Reaper

@cyanight:

I found you… Im SteelerLou, lol… I had made an account for a Steeler give-away sometime ago, lol.  Actually plan to use a couple of your house rules this weekend.  The NO’s, Strategic Bombing from AB, Neutral Blocs and Groupings of minor countries with majors.

Awesome, I see you, and if you’re not on twitter often I can always come here and inform you of scheduled game days so you can get the in game updates. Thanks for trying my house rules, the best one of all is the Strategic Bombers needing to leave from an Air Base in order to get the +2 damage bonus… I can see a rule like that fitting in nicely with the official rules.

Hitler lost five weeks by having to bail Mussolini out in Greece. Otherwise the Germans would have been to Moscow before bad weather. But there is no guarantee that the Russians would have surrendered even if they lost Moscow. Plans were underway to move the capital further East.

after leningrad falls, you need to transports, so that whilst you are holding in ukraine, you are REINFORCING the eastern front from Leningrad everyturn.

And on a good day, if the allies aren’t paying attention, sometimes from within the baltic, you get to sack England, and they don’t even see it coming.

@MarkVIIIMarc:

If you have the AA guns around do you have the white complexes from one of the old games?

I use the complexes & AA Guns from old games. I much prefer that over the silly little squares that are so hard to pick up.

I agree with the Axis, especially Japan controlling the flow of the game right from the beginning.

However England and India are my favorite in this one. In it and overmatched right from the beginning, I love it when both are the crippling thorn in the Axis rear.

I finished a global game yesterday. I was Ge and It, a friend was Ja, another was UK, ANZAC and FR and another China, US and SU.

Even though my Italian fleet was left alone and a I1 where I lost nothing and gained 5 territories, followed by another couple of good turns for the Axis the Allies won.

The moment the US and SU were at war the megafleet of the US moved to the most eastern territory of the SU and landed 10 land units there, while their bombers took care of the transports and small ships at the Japanese coast (and after that landed next to the land forces in the Soviet Far East). Yes, US bombers can take of from San Francisco, attack the Japanese Sea and land in Soviet Union. Japan had to pull its navy back and with that the game was over. No more expansion for Japan, a couple of relatively bad rolls from Germany and Soviets pumping out hordes of infantry and it was all over.

To balance things a bit more we are going to use the Italian Fix (we thought up that rule and then read in on here too) and use the Japanese extra NO of 10 IPC while not at war (except with China). I don’t think it will be enough so maybe we will even consider super subs for Germany, Warbonds for Italy or Super Factories (what’s the name?)for Japan.

Mind you, we used the new set up as described in Canucks post (less aircraft in the Pacific). The naval base in NSW is logical, but extremely powerful for ANZAC. They get both NO’s on turn 1 and can reach almost everywhere that’s important for them.