-A Painting Tutorial and Resource for A&A Global-

After reading the threads, I figured maybe this way would be best to find an artist who can help. I’m looking for someone to help our monastery finish it’s customization of AA Global 40 and possible help, with what is necessary, on the pieces for Global War 1936…… the more intricate, the more monks like games like this. We have lots of pieces that are donated and pretty interesting. We would be more than willing to give the leftovers away. The “Ratte” Landkreuzer P. 1000 tank is my favorite. We have 3

Some painting I did on my original pieces.
Japanese Navy.JPG Italian Navy.jpg Bismark.jpg

@Quirky-Turtle At least you have an ocean as an excuse. Here it just a truck ride north…

@Dafyd:

or the little “IG JOES”

:lol: :lol: :lol:

I have seen lots of people here use acrylics and I have on occasion. Most of my paints are enamels though. I find that is stays wet longer (which is a good thing) and doesn’t clump up nearly as much on your brush. I also use enamels in my airbrush. I find that enamels are actually much easier to clean than acrylics. While acrylics are water soluble, they don’t just dissolve, especially if already dry. It involves a great deal of scrubbing and scraping. With enamels, all you need is some mineral spirits cleaner and it takes the paint right off with very little effort. Cleaning acrylic paint out of my airbrush was hell the first time I did it… never using acrylics in there again. In terms of the finish, I can only assume that enamels hold up better to bumps and scrapes than acrylic paint does.

Someone once asked if enamels, by default, have a glossy finish to them. They do not, as long as you are using flat enamels, which seem to be the standard. I use flats and they have an excellent, non-shiny finish. I feel like enamel colors are a little deeper too, on the whole, but I suppose it depends on the brand of acrylic you use. Vallejo seems to be a popular choice for acrylics. I use predominantly Model Masters (Testors) enamels. In general, I would just said to find a brand you like to work with and produces the results you like. Don’t buy super cheap paint… you will get the results you pay for.

Good luck!

@Duff:

I tried to post photos for you but this forum won’t let me post links for some reason.

Because of the forum’s anti-spam software, you need to have a certain minimum of posts (I think it’s 10 but I’m not sure) before the forum gives you the option to post attachments.

I can see wizards of the coast having a blanket statement rejecting all requests to modify material, after all… they probaly deal with it alot with their D&D department than with Avilon Hill products.

@Albert:

@Spitfire38:

I have looked at I-94’s decals and thought about it… the only ones I have trouble with are the Russian stars. I enjoy hand painting the insignia and I feel like it makes it look more uniform when it’s all paint, but like you said, it would definitely save some time  :lol:

Well you could save some effort there as Moscow ordered upper wing stars to be painted out on the eve of the German invasion……plain green was also changed to green with a black disruptive camo pattern   http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/index.html

I didn’t know that they painted over the top-wing stars. Thanks for sharing! If I were to paint them again, I’d probably leave them on or use decals, just for easy recognition on the game board, but I like knowing what was historically accurate.