Global, Europe and Pacific Setup and NO charts on one card.

@Patchman123 said in EXACT pieces count for Pacific/Europe 1940 Second Edition:

@Midnight_Reaper said in EXACT pieces count for Pacific/Europe 1940 Second Edition:

@Patchman123:

What am I looking for is NOT a combined count for Pacific and Europe 1940 put together as one whole game, but rather, how many infantry there are in Pac. 1940 Sec. Ed? Not just infantry, but ALL pieces.

How many pieces for all the games? PER GAME, NOT combined.

Question already answered: @Midnight_Reaper:

-Midnight_Reaper

Where is it exactly? I notice that there are pieces with nummeration on the bottom for sorting them out all by country, minus ANZAC, which has none on any of its infantry pieces in Second Edition.

The change of forum software has borked some of the old links to on-site posts. Here is a link to what can be found in a copy of Europe 1940, SE and a copy of Pacific 1940, SE: read for yourself.

-Midnight_Reaper

@Jeidson:

Can you combine Pacific 2nd edition and Europe 1st edition to play the Global edition?

Thanks,

jerry

I think you would need to decide whether you want to play 1st or 2nd ed rules. You’ll need to do a few work arounds, such as putting nation markers under AA Guns but sounds completely doable.

Great, thanks for the info! I thought I was missing some information.

Thanks again!

@vonLettowVorbeck1914:

Is Global domination rules just playing until one side controls all the territories? Any clarification would be appreciated.

In practice, a global domination variant is one where the sides ignore the official victory conditions, which are based on controlling a certain number of victory cities for a turn, and instead play until one side concedes.  You could play until all territories are controlled, but that outcome is usually determined well before the last enemy territory is captured.  Typically, experienced players can decide if a game is worth continuing after one of the major capitals falls.

As some have pointed out, this type of game can be less interesting because the Allies’ economic might encourages them to grind out a longer game until they can pour all their resources into crushing Germany or Japan.

Conversely, it presents a greater challenge for the Axis while also making the Allies less defensive as Cow mentioned.  The problem as I see it is that any game that lasts longer than 10 turns becomes a de facto Allied victory because of the economic imbalance.  Consequently, we’ve been trying to formulate a bid to help even things out, but not break the game in the first 3 turns.  It’s a bit of a round peg/square hole problem, but it’s good to get people talking about it for those of us who cling to the old “global domination” victory rule.

Well if I was given 4 and a half months, I`m sure I could have delivered just as well. :P

17, the bid follows classic bid. you can go 20-13… jeez

STOP MAKING THIS MORE COMPLICATED. HE ASK SIMPLE QUESTION AND YOU MOCK HIM. THEN WONDER WHY FORUM HAS ONLY THE SAME PEOPLE.

But yeah I’d house rule against japan cheese and give axis a bid. It’s simple, you move in allies sz territories you declare war. thada!

This is all there will be in the way of official errata for the box rules for a while.

@GrayBlaZe:

Yes and I have even a bigger color difference between the two European boards.  So much so that when I show it off so far to three different people the first thing thay say is wow the size is impressive, the second thing is, “look how different the blue is in the sea between these two boards.” stands out big time.  Not a big deal to me but I can see how obvious it is when it keeps getting pointed out…

Ours also has quite a color difference. There’s more yellow in the blue of the Pacific board - or the other way around, can’t check, don’t have the board here. It shows less in the land areas since abit more yellow in brownish colors won’t show that much.

Also it shows so hard because there happens to be a LOT of ocean there. :)

Doesn’t really bother me, though.