B.O.B.C.A.T. vs Beancounter Challenge (players needed)

@yazoinkergrapft

well just a FYI but Krieghound wrote the rulebook so there is no higher authority :)

Hi Galendae, it is tough being a newbie in this very unforgiving game. Let me guess the strategy? Germany bum-rushing Russia and taking Moscow before the other Allies can get in range to help. Right? There are plenty of players still trying to figure that one out as well. Practice a lot and work out a strategy that works and fits your style of play. Playing the Allies is a real tightrope act for sure! The Taranto raid and Battle of Tobruk by the London-English on turn 1 will certainly help neuter the Italians in the Med and start you in the right direction! Good Luck!

@Koobs:

Just bought the two 1940 games, and I definitely recommend buying the boxed games. It’s just a whole different feeling; opening up the boxes, setting up the pieces, etc. Really makes you more immersed in it.

Very well said.

Hey NavySeal,
I have done the same thing. I am kind of a piece junkie so when new editions come out, I often buy several copies for all the pieces. Of course, then I end up with too many of certain things. Even with the unit sculpts. I will want a lot of infantry, tanks, artillery, planes, etc. but not so much with capital ships, even for US and Japan.
So, I count out what I want to keep for my own games and put the rest on eBay. Sometimes I might lump all the extras in a big lot or make up a bunch of little sets. There are guys out there that are even worse piece junkies than I am and my game pieces pretty much always sell.
As for the extra game boards, instruction books, cardboard accessories and dice, you can put them on eBay as well. Some guys out there have a lot of playing pieces but perhaps missed out on whatever game you are offering, or just don’t want to go out and buy a new one. I found the best way to ship these, especially with the game board, is to use a USPS Large Game Board Flat Rate Box. You can put all the game accessories in one of these along with some packing material to fill in the extra space and the USPS will ship it anywhere as long as it doesn’t weigh over 70 pounds. For shipping within the US, I think it costs $16.95. You should check usps.com to be sure. I don’t know about international shipping because I only ship within the US.
The MOST important part is to price these items to sell. Start low and take the shipping cost into account. If you start out with too high a price, you won’t get any bids and will be stuck with them. Even if your starting price isn’t too high, remember they will have to also pay shipping. So start low. You are probably not going to get what  you paid. The object here is to at least make a little money back on your investment and provide some gaming materials to someone that can use them. Even if you just get the lowest bid, at least you get that amount for yourself and you get rid of the excess pieces.
Another option is to offer free shipping which can draw more looks at your items, but then you have to either start your bidding price to include the shipping costs or take a loss with the shipping charges.
Good luck.

Appreciated the feed back,

Thanks for the realistic and board game feel for this type of situation I have posted. I have an answer and can now pass it onto my group.

BH

Yup, rifles are DEFINITELY better AA than flak.

It depends on whether you’re talking about OOB or Alpha.  In OOB, kamikaze may be used if the ships end their combat movement in a kamikaze zone, whether or not there is a battle.  In Alpha, kamikaze are triggered by combat, not combat movement, so the ships must actually fight in a kamikaze zone (or launch an amphibious assault from it) in order to be targeted.

@Variable:

It would last about as long as your post in this forum. Needs to go to Variants forum…

…um, yeah.