Please post when (and only when) you finally get your AAE40 home.

@MM1940

Well done!

@Koobs:

Just bought the two 1940 games, and I definitely recommend buying the boxed games. It’s just a whole different feeling; opening up the boxes, setting up the pieces, etc. Really makes you more immersed in it.

Very well said.

Thanks for all the info guys. Will check into all of it soon.

Hey NavySeal,
I have done the same thing. I am kind of a piece junkie so when new editions come out, I often buy several copies for all the pieces. Of course, then I end up with too many of certain things. Even with the unit sculpts. I will want a lot of infantry, tanks, artillery, planes, etc. but not so much with capital ships, even for US and Japan.
So, I count out what I want to keep for my own games and put the rest on eBay. Sometimes I might lump all the extras in a big lot or make up a bunch of little sets. There are guys out there that are even worse piece junkies than I am and my game pieces pretty much always sell.
As for the extra game boards, instruction books, cardboard accessories and dice, you can put them on eBay as well. Some guys out there have a lot of playing pieces but perhaps missed out on whatever game you are offering, or just don’t want to go out and buy a new one. I found the best way to ship these, especially with the game board, is to use a USPS Large Game Board Flat Rate Box. You can put all the game accessories in one of these along with some packing material to fill in the extra space and the USPS will ship it anywhere as long as it doesn’t weigh over 70 pounds. For shipping within the US, I think it costs $16.95. You should check usps.com to be sure. I don’t know about international shipping because I only ship within the US.
The MOST important part is to price these items to sell. Start low and take the shipping cost into account. If you start out with too high a price, you won’t get any bids and will be stuck with them. Even if your starting price isn’t too high, remember they will have to also pay shipping. So start low. You are probably not going to get what  you paid. The object here is to at least make a little money back on your investment and provide some gaming materials to someone that can use them. Even if you just get the lowest bid, at least you get that amount for yourself and you get rid of the excess pieces.
Another option is to offer free shipping which can draw more looks at your items, but then you have to either start your bidding price to include the shipping costs or take a loss with the shipping charges.
Good luck.

Garg, I think you should petition government for a degree course on A&A. I would cross the Atlantic and sign up. I need an  excuse to visit North America.

Thank you very much

@calvinhobbesliker:

@Rorschach:

@Captain:

According to Larry’s most recent posting the US NO’s are below.  So the US only gets their starting 35 IPC’s and then add the NO’s below when at war, correct?  Nothing else.  We are under the impression it was 35 starting plus 30 when at war PLUS the NO’s on top of that 65 for a possible 90+depending on the NO’s accomplished.

United States
When at War
1. Collect 15 IPCs per turn for complete control of the continental US and Mexico (WUS, CUS, EUS).
2. Collect 5 IPC per turn if the Allies control 5 of the 7 following islands. Midway, Wake, Marianas, Iwo Jima, Caroline, Solomon Islands and Guam.
3. Collect 5 IPCs per turn for controlling the Philippines
4. Collect 5 IPCs per turn for controlling Hawaii, Alaska, the Aleutian Islands, Line Islands, and Johnston Island
5. Collect 5 IPCs for turn for controlling Southern Mexico, Central America (Panama)and the West indies

You are correct.  It’s the base 35 (assuming they still own all of their original territories that comprise of that 35 ipc’s), plus 30 for being at war, plus whatever amount per NO they have fulfilled for that turn.

Incorrect; the +30 was originally an NO that was split into the NOs listed. Thus, the US collects 35+NO’s for whatever they have.

Argh, I can’t keep up with the continuing changes to the OOB rules.  /sigh.

@tytyboogie:

my question is lets say russia takes a german territory on there turn(2) and has there land units in that territory…on the U.K 's turn (4) in that same round…can U.K.  planes safely land there in that russia territory that they took over from germany. so basically do u have to wait for the entire round to be over before any friendly planes can land in a territory.

Any territory that starts the turn friendly to a player (in this case, the territory that russia captured) has no restrictions for movement, repair, etc.  Naval bases, factorys, airfields would all be operational, and you would be allowed to noncombat land planes there.

This is also why it’s better, if it’s possible, to liberate Russian factories with another power than to wait for Russia to liberate them, as russia would start its turn with the factory able to produce units that turn (as opposed to russia liberating it, and being forced to wait a full round).