Please post when (and only when) you finally get your AAE40 home.

Ha! I think I have it!

USA1 buys a CV for New York, USA2 moves it to SZ123 but leaves the fighters on Iceland. USSR3 two planes leave Leningrad, kill the blocker and land on the USN’s CV. If the USSR Barents Sea sub is still alive that can join also.

Requires trimming my USA1 purchases to 1inf 1TT 2DD 1ftr 1CV.

Hey NavySeal,
I have done the same thing. I am kind of a piece junkie so when new editions come out, I often buy several copies for all the pieces. Of course, then I end up with too many of certain things. Even with the unit sculpts. I will want a lot of infantry, tanks, artillery, planes, etc. but not so much with capital ships, even for US and Japan.
So, I count out what I want to keep for my own games and put the rest on eBay. Sometimes I might lump all the extras in a big lot or make up a bunch of little sets. There are guys out there that are even worse piece junkies than I am and my game pieces pretty much always sell.
As for the extra game boards, instruction books, cardboard accessories and dice, you can put them on eBay as well. Some guys out there have a lot of playing pieces but perhaps missed out on whatever game you are offering, or just don’t want to go out and buy a new one. I found the best way to ship these, especially with the game board, is to use a USPS Large Game Board Flat Rate Box. You can put all the game accessories in one of these along with some packing material to fill in the extra space and the USPS will ship it anywhere as long as it doesn’t weigh over 70 pounds. For shipping within the US, I think it costs $16.95. You should check usps.com to be sure. I don’t know about international shipping because I only ship within the US.
The MOST important part is to price these items to sell. Start low and take the shipping cost into account. If you start out with too high a price, you won’t get any bids and will be stuck with them. Even if your starting price isn’t too high, remember they will have to also pay shipping. So start low. You are probably not going to get what  you paid. The object here is to at least make a little money back on your investment and provide some gaming materials to someone that can use them. Even if you just get the lowest bid, at least you get that amount for yourself and you get rid of the excess pieces.
Another option is to offer free shipping which can draw more looks at your items, but then you have to either start your bidding price to include the shipping costs or take a loss with the shipping charges.
Good luck.

No.

Welcome, indignation!

Retreating is done at the end of a combat round.  You can’t skip the prior steps and go straight to retreating, so you must fight at least one round of each declared battle.  It’s the same in all versions.

However, in AA42, AA50, and AA40, attacking (and defending) subs may avoid fighting by submerging at the beginning of the first round if there are no opposing destroyers.

@Gargantua:

Europe 1950?

SWEET game Idea!  The Germans and Japs still going strong! Choppers and computer technology! Jet Fighters and Moon Missions! I love it!

What about the Italians? :roll:

Europe 1950 could also be cold war style

Convoys occur in the collect income phase of the country you’re raiding.

@jeffdestroyer:

WUS to GIB via Mexico caught my eye.  A bomber will have enough movement to hit the adjacent sz

You can also use the fact that CUS borders Z101