Global Gaming Table

@hopper1999 I’ve access to both resin and PLA printers, and while resin has a couple of extra steps compared to PLA, I wouldn’t consider it painful. I’ve come to appreciate resin’s ability to show detail even in very small scale. For me its worth the extra steps to clean and cure, for those results. What’s great is there are so many free units available, with some simple editing/converting you can quickly build cool armies.
As for casting, while I haven’t casted any A&A parts yet (still building my unit library), I have casted a lot of 3.75 action figure parts. I’ve gotten best results using a syringe and pressure pot. (I converted a old paint pressure tank). You inject your mold, and then put it under pressure, I’d do around 30psi, to help the resin into the thinner parts of the mold and prevent bubbles. It also helps, when making your mold to put it under pressure as well. I’ve found it helps prevents bubbles in the silicone and between the silicone and the part being cast.
I plan on using casting to duplicate units I already have, that I can’t find stl files for.

An example here is how we fill this one up.
I was formerly playing as Germany, so below is my movements.
For sea zone, we use the same number (Eg from sea zone 93>99)
If transport, we will write 93 > S france(pick up 2 troops) >96 (disembark on Tobruk)
For land, we will just write the name of land (from a to b)
Next we will be marking the troops to move.
If it’s all units in the land to move, we just write “all”
Adding the concept of bidding, you’d get lots of fun when you either evade an attack, or managed to “pin” your enemies.
Hope this helps.

@zhirong-fu 145447164_10222966829931692_1275817621394509162_n.jpg

FOR CLASSIC THIRD EDITION RULES
A&A Classic 3rd Edition v3.5.pdf

CLASSIC THIRD EDITION RULES.jpg

IF you can do better, you are free. I use paint. Here is the PC original
axis_allies_PC.jpg

And actually, here’s a supplementary idea. Since the I.D. charts contain a silhouette for every nation-specific sculpt, what you could do is produce a nation-specific version of this chart for all of the player powers, with the name and symbol of each power added at the top. The textual data would remain the same in every chart; all you’d need to do is is replace the unit images.

I was guided to this site by a YouTube subscriber, it has some interesting options for trays.

http://www.toolstation.nl/shop/Opbergen/d60/Assortimentskisten+%26+dozen/sd3147

When I painted my units, I had issues with Britain, I originally made 2 schemes, then decided I only wanted the tan, not green… On my painting, I used a combo of lacquer Enamel and acrylic, it was at the enamel stage, but I soaked them in paint thinner (in all preparation to consider them toast and order new units)… but they came clean, they soaked for 10 min or so, and I used my tooth brush (yes mine lol, bristle’s turned green, and yes, I still use it, the green faded away HAHA) to scrub away the paint film.

Christmas bump.

'tis the season : ) worth a listen : )

Thanks LHoffman,

Your appreciation is my inspiration… because I refuse to use a sheet of glass, my research has lead me to a material called styrene (google it) which is a type of plastic sheet that can be directly printed on. All indications point to this method being the last alternative to glass and although it cost around $240, it looks to be my best option. Even after flushing $300 so far in a crappy print, and installation complications, I’m happy with this new direction if it turns out the way I’ve been told it will. Basically it’s flexible plastic, so it should lie flat without air pockets getting trapped, and because it doesn’t get laminated, the colors should be slightly brighter. If it is sensitive to scratching than there is a clear film sheet by 3M I can look into, that’s where I’m at right now.