Accurate Miniature Equivalents for Custom Painting your 1940 E&P

Here are my latest British ships from EBard Models & HBG.

The Nelson class battleship by EBard Models is a highly detailed 3D printed sculpt shown here painted & decaled with authentic hull camouflage.

Nelson Angled View with Hull Camouflage 1200x900.jpg

Nelson Port View 1200x900.jpg

Nelson Stbd View - EBard Resin 1200x900.jpg

Nelson Bottom View 1200x900.jpg

HMS Furious is a very nice 3D printed sculpt from HBG:

Furious Angled View - HBG 1200x900.jpg

Furious Side View - HBG 1200x900.jpg

Furious Top View - HBG 1200x900.jpg

The HMS Vanguard by HBG is also 3D printed and makes a great addition to your fleet.

Vanguard Angled View 1200x900.jpg

Vanguard Side View 1200x900.jpg

Visit my site at A&A Boardgaming and see the entire lineup of United Kingdom ships and more.

@CWO:

@Drfrozenfire:

I’m going to probably print a large transparency map based on the board I’ve been designing based on satellite imagery that is in some serious high definition.

If you’ll be using satellite imagery as the basis for your map, will you be keeping the real-world proportions of the land masses and oceans?  The Global 1940 game map, for practical game play purposes, distorts both the size and the shape of various geographic areas.

No, I’ve taken the satellite images and enlarged certain areas so that there is room in places like Europe for the large scale of battle that often takes place there. When I’m done with the map file, I’ll post it here if you’re interested

Redleg,

First, you have a beautiful family. Second, Your paint jobs look great. I have to really give applause to your freehand markings. It’s true decals are cleaner and sharper but I my self have used none on anything I’ve painted and I’m developing a way to layer and paint my own markings (It’s been holding up my project severely) I simply can’t afford to buy sheets of decals that I might only use a handful of.

One tip That I’ve adopted, is to use ultra-fine Sharpie permanent markers for small lines and details where a brush won’t do or may slop (canopy frames). Lastly I’ve learned from table-top gamers of much larger scale (Warhammer, Bolt Action) models that at the scale Axis & Allies models are you can “mass paint” with fewer details on many units to create large armies, fleets and air forces that will look phenomenal from eye level to table top . Anyway us A&A painters have our work cut out for ourselves. I salute you sir.

Anyway, keep on painting, Nice work.

Sounds great!

@aaronimpulse:

Should have tried to sneak the maple leaf in there somewhere!

Like most artists, the obvious often evades me. Next version I will definitely do that.

Yrs.,
R.

––Calling “Viracocha”----

––My friend,…it’s been way too long since I’ve heard from you. I ALWAYS enjoy my conversations with you.

Tall Paul

Guys,

@coachofmany:

very nice!
**––I’m glad you enjoyed them. Lord knows I CERTAINLY ENJOY HBG’S PRODUCTS!

Tall Paul**

this first pic is what i had been using, i manually printed things out in one page sections via “print selection” command and pieced them all together, and laminated them with clear packing tape. Ultimately it proved to be a little larger than the default gameboard like I wanted, but still sloppy looking and with some bumps here and there which complicated unit placement due to tipping or sliding:

it was larger enough than the default board that things in europe didn’t seem so crowded anymore, but shoddy looking still, and that can wear on the nerves.

So I finally said enough is enough, and took the map pdf file on a jump drive down to minuteman press in London Kentucky and had them blow it up and laminate it….it costed $118 IPCs U.S. Dollars.

Its 2 foot by 3 foot, and gives us plenty of room for stacks. I got tired of kenny’s fat fingers knocking over my german stacks and scattering them across europe…he says my money was wasted because “those damn germans were going across europe anyway I just helped you out is all”.

but here it is: