Re: Field Marshal Games Pieces Project Discussion thread

What decals would you recomend Virachocha?  :wink:

@reloader-1:

To all you people talking about poor mold quality - have you bought Spring 1942? Some of the best mold quality I’ve ever seen in a game.

I highly doubt they have.

Yes, yes I have.  The quality is exactly the same as my AA50 version.  And the quality of the pieces in the AAP40 I got a chance to play was worse still (most noticably the half tracks) … /shrug

@Imperious:

I prefer Grey as well. I have a feeling that companies will make consignment deals to produce games using these pieces. FMG really may not know how big they will be if they complete sets for most nations…. it will start a whole new genre of AA style games because the door is no longer closed to pieces which is very costly.

Grey is like in 98% of all wargames as the representational color for German military forces. The exceptions being Third Reich AH 1977 and Axis and Allies since 2004.  Plus the dice are already grey and they have to match them and lastly, FMG can make both… generating even more sales.

I don’t think anybody won’t buy them because they are one color or the other anyway, so Grey is safe.

I would buy them if they were orange.

Very much my opinion as well.

Of course, no one persons opinion is “right” nor “wrong”, so of course, the debate could rage on forever.  In the end … it will be what it will be.  What other games use black as germany (besides AAA)?

Rorsach,

Maybe we are having a little bit of miscommunication here. There is a difference between Quality (proper molding, no flashing/discoloration, no distortion) and Detail (pieces are highly detailed, with visible differences).

There is a HUGE difference between Spring 1942 pieces and Anniversary pieces in quality - Anniversary pieces are universally smaller and have lots of mold errors. Now, there is no difference between them in detail, and I will grant you that.

I can provide pictures if you need further clarification. The difference between them is night and day.

@trackmagic:

What decals would you recomend Virachocha?  :wink:

I-94 Enterprises. Good stuff!  :-D

@Yoper:

@Viracocha:

Huh… the blob effect, know it from longf ago.  DOn’t use enamels on such small detail - spray a dark base coat, then dry brush everything with acrylic - I’ve seen friends of mine who are interested in some of the detail I for instance, get into.  But if you simply do as above, then slap a few decals here and there - still looks better (imo) then unpainted and isn’t too much of a chore…

AAAAAHHHHHHH!!!

Decals!!!

Never!!!

Sorry.  A bit of an inside joke with a friend of mine who has decals all over his game parts.  I really don’t care for the decal effect.

That’s too bad… huh, so you don’t care for the ‘decal effect?’  Do you not like national symbols on the actual WWII vehicles as well?

@Yoper:

@Brain:

@Viracocha:

Paint the minis, poof problem vanishes and the game is enhanced!  :wink:

Yes I agree. How hard is it to paint your pieces?

I have never had much luck painting plastic parts.  The paint actually seems to fill in the details and turn the units into rounded blob.

Yes, I could try to thin the paint, but I don’t want to have to try to figure this out.

Thinning the paint is as simple as adding some water.  Nothing tricky.

@reloader-1:

Rorsach,

Maybe we are having a little bit of miscommunication here. There is a difference between Quality (proper molding, no flashing/discoloration, no distortion) and Detail (pieces are highly detailed, with visible differences).

There is a HUGE difference between Spring 1942 pieces and Anniversary pieces in quality - Anniversary pieces are universally smaller and have lots of mold errors. Now, there is no difference between them in detail, and I will grant you that.

I can provide pictures if you need further clarification. The difference between them is night and day.

No miscommunication.  I used to work in a plastics injection molding factory so I definately know the difference.

Perhaps it was just the set that I was using, but in all honesty, there was zero difference in quality between Spring 42 and AA50.  Or, perhaps my copy of AA50 just happens to have a higher quality set of pieces?

@Yoper:

@Viracocha:

@Yoper:

@Viracocha:

Huh… the blob effect, know it from longf ago.  DOn’t use enamels on such small detail - spray a dark base coat, then dry brush everything with acrylic - I’ve seen friends of mine who are interested in some of the detail I for instance, get into.  But if you simply do as above, then slap a few decals here and there - still looks better (imo) then unpainted and isn’t too much of a chore…

AAAAAHHHHHHH!!!

Decals!!!

Never!!!

Sorry.  A bit of an inside joke with a friend of mine who has decals all over his game parts.  I really don’t care for the decal effect.

That’s too bad… huh, so you don’t care for the ‘decal effect?’  Do you not like national symbols on the actual WWII vehicles as well?

No.  Not at this scale.  That is what the nation-specific molds and colors are for.

If we were playing with A&A miniatures sized parts, then it might be applicable.

Ah - I see.  Because I almost went for just ‘colour scheme’ approach on mine… but the transfers lured me in!

@cminke:

FMG, why dont you put an option for a black germany set and a grey germany set. that way any one who whants grey can have grey, and any one who wants to have black can have black!

Oh great what about the rest of us who want pink and purple?

@Yoper:

@cminke:

FMG, why dont you put an option for a black germany set and a grey germany set. that way any one who whants grey can have grey, and any one who wants to have black can have black!

FMG could wait to do Germany last so that this idea could percolate for a while and maybe the funds would be built up enough from the sales of the other countries that there is enough left over to spurge on doing both colors.

Good idea… though I still think painting them is the best option  :-)

Hmmm…this is interesting.  Look what I found.  The Anniversary Edition Rule Book says the Germans are still “Gray”.  :? Says so right on page 5:

http://www.wizards.com/\AvalonHill\rules\AxAl-AnEd_Rules.pdf

Yet, the pieces are clearly black.  Just another WOTC typo?  :|

And look!  :-o Pacific 1940 Rules says on page 4 that ANZAC are “dark tan”, like FMG’s combat dice, but the pieces are clearly Gray…weird.

http://www.wizards.com/\AvalonHill\rules\AVL1940_RuleBook.pdf

Did they mix up the colors in the factory?

FMG, did you know about this when you decided to make your ANZAC dice dark tan…or it this just a weird coincidence?

I think you just found some more WOTC inconsistency.

Well… I’m not saying this to be contentious, but they are gray.  A very deep gray, seriously.  Even when you look at modeling paints which say “German Gray” the paint is nearly black - nearly.  Though truth be told, from what I’ve seen (in life and in books/ on websites) they used many shades of gray - just so happens that this time WOTC picked the darker shade.  That being said, my personal opinion is that it should be the lighter gray of previous editions… not that it matters since I paint 'em anyway. For example my Panzers are German Gray - and it isn’t a whole lot of difference between the final shade of paint and the mini’s original colour.

Sometimes it’s hard to tell the difference between navy blue and black.

I like the ‘grey’ they used in Europe - dark, but not as dark as later games.

@jim010:

I like the ‘grey’ they used in Europe - dark, but not as dark as later games.

Me too.  :|

Any news at all about the Italian pieces?