I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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SS custom Table 2 pics
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Just for you IL :wink: :-D
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Another pic.
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I made 2 4 x 4 box frames and will join at the middle. Put a 1 x 6 under storage area for containers, tops, and 4 dice boxes on ends and 2 poker chip storage pockets in middle and certain length risers to support containers and tops. Built it this way to support sides for elbow leaners. :roll:. Will post pics of winged end dice boxes with more storage.
Havin hard time post in pics. Trying to get bigger size. 200 x 400 pix max correct ?
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SS, these tables are sweet! I hope you have many great years wargaming on these tables. :-D
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@SS:
Havin hard time post in pics. Trying to get bigger size. 200 x 400 pix max correct ?
Allowed file types: txt, doc, pdf, jpg, mpg, png, xls, aam, apm, mvf, tsvg, xml, zip
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John, we have 5 to 7 guys that play on HBG’s G39 game and it’s about once every 5 weeks. Very enjoyable.
CWO, ya I know about the files. Have to change them to png. to post. I will try a larger size next time or later.
Thanks for the replies !
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@SS:
CWO, ya I know about the files. Have to change them to png. to post. I will try a larger size next time or later.
Actually, png isn’t a good choice for posting: it’s high-quality but it take up a lot of bytes. For 1536 KB, you can post a much bigger jpeg picture than you could for a png picture, while still getting decent picture quality.
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But when its a jpeg file thats when I can’t get to post. I’ll try in a bit and see .
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@SS:
But when its a jpeg file thats when I can’t get to post. I’ll try in a bit and see .
Try .jpg as opposed to .jpeg and see if that helps. I normally post in .jpg – I’ll try posting one below as an experiment.
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@SS:
John, we have 5 to 7 guys that play on HBG’s G39 game and it’s about once every 5 weeks. Very enjoyable.
CWO, ya I know about the files. Have to change them to png. to post. I will try a larger size next time or later.
Thanks for the replies !
Wow SS, it must be nice to have that many people that close to you, that can play. Your are very lucky, my friend. :-)
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Yes very lucky John.
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Better
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Oh Got it workin now.
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Pic of containers and shelfs
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Very nice pics, SS. :-)
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Heres a pic of some flags I’m doing.
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Those are cool, for sure. :-)
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Really nice table SS, great craftsmanship.
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Nice!
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Table 2 done. Just got to decide to stain or paint. This table I made 2 box frames 48" x 58".
Then put a 1 x 6 under the box frames at the edges where the containers, dice and money compartments will be supported with risers.
Now the leg supports will be 6" further inside ( inside the 1 x 6 ) so nobody can kick the legs.
Dice boxes and battle boards are the same as table 1. I am planning on having printed stren with a design for the battle boards for all tables. I just like the wing affect.
Now everything will be supported better than 1st table. Got to decide if I will rebuild table 1.Got some signs and flags to hang but the next project will be to finish the walls and paint the floor and see if theres room for table 3.
The flags in last photo I will have them on every victory city.
Can’t remember who posted the flags here and I just printed and glued on toothpicks.
I didn’t print at 45%. I reduced the printed flags to 1500 px so the flags are 1" long x 1/2" high. I didn’t won’t the flags to be to big and look awkward.Thanks for all replys.
SS out!
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