I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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1940 Global table & painted pieces
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Toblerone77,
––Well, I’ll confess to being “slightly” OCD, but an old carpentry saying, which I’ve found to be true through experience, goes like this: “THINK twice,….CUT once!”
––Even if you are NOT using decals to denote national identity,…IF your paint schemes are
DISTINCTLY DIFFERENT from one another you shouldn’t have any problems confusing the nationality of any units.
––Think about it. You not only have COLOR to differentiate between countries,….but paint SCHEMES as well.
––Start with a country with a very distictive paint scheme, like “Italian Desert Camo”, and make any other country’s paint schemes that could possibly be near or involved in combat with the “IDC” scheme DISTINCTLY DIFFERENT from it. Then just continue this train of thought until you’ve got all of the countries in the game designed. “Wala”,…you’re finished.
----In my life experience I’ve found that in most cases a well thought out plan BEFORE any action takes place is a winning formula. I hope this helps you.“Tall Paul”
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@Tall:
Toblerone77,
––Well, I’ll confess to being “slightly” OCD, but an old carpentry saying, which I’ve found to be true through experience, goes like this: “THINK twice,….CUT once!”
––Even if you are NOT using decals to denote national identity,…IF your paint schemes are
DISTINCTLY DIFFERENT from one another you shouldn’t have any problems confusing the nationality of any units.
––Think about it. You not only have COLOR to differentiate between countries,….but paint SCHEMES as well.
––Start with a country with a very distictive paint scheme, like “Italian Desert Camo”, and make any other country’s paint schemes that could possibly be near or involved in combat with the “IDC” scheme DISTINCTLY DIFFERENT from it. Then just continue this train of thought until you’ve got all of the countries in the game designed. “Wala”,…you’re finished.
----In my life experience I’ve found that in most cases a well thought out plan BEFORE any action takes place is a winning formula. I hope this helps you.“Tall Paul”
I was kind of doing that. The problem is mostly the ships. However painting the newer destinctive pieces will be much easier. When I started painting the old MB pieces it put the old Fortress America pieces to better use than they had before. I’m actually considering painting my AA50 set. I think it will be much, much, easier.
Even without decals I will be able to spot things on the board easily enough as well as my more experienced co-players by using the newer pieces.
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I am going to use different paint schemes for UK units operating in different theaters.
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Nice!
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I’m so utterly awed and jealous of the awesomeness of all these painted pieces that I simply want to spend all my weekends doing the same to my stuff.
I think it’s about time I dusted off some of my old Dragon/Tamaya brand models to get some practice in. It’s decided, I’m gonna paint my Global 1940 set!
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I’m so utterly awed and jealous of the awesomeness of all these painted pieces that I simply want to spend all my weekends doing the same to my stuff.
I think it’s about time I dusted off some of my old Dragon/Tamaya brand models to get some practice in. It’s decided, I’m gonna paint my Global 1940 set!
Redleg13A,
Field Artillery, huh? Nice. Back in my active duty days, I was in Air Defense, on the Bradley Linebacker. Been working with the Guard for the last ten years in Supply.
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New toys came in the mail.
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Super nice!
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Great work! I especially like the before/after shots of the mech units – a very dramatic contrast.
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Very nice! I like how you did the inf. bases yellow for easy ID.
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Just read this all for the first time. The table & victory city lights are amazing!
Did you drill through the game board to install the lights? How did you mark the exact spot of the VC on the table so you could drill through? Very curious about your install method. My dad loves projects. :)
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IKE,
Yes, I drilled through the game boards. Initially, it was a very hard decision but as you can see, it was worth the risk. Basically, I put everything in place on the table (game board and plexiglass) After practicing on a scrap piece of plexiglass, I used my smallest drill bit to drill from the top down into the table all the way through. Then everything came off and we drilled larger holes so we could work easier since the board game would hide those. All the wires have been cleaned up and stapled to the table underneath. 9 volt batteries power every two switches.
-jluna1273
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Very cool, so the LED sticks up through the plexiglass, about 1/4’ or so? I’ve seen some other people have the game board printed on vinyl and then they glue it down to the plywood.
I’d love to get that map file if anyone sees this and could send it to me.
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Redleg13A,
I’m so utterly awed and jealous of the awesomeness of all these painted pieces that I simply want to spend all my weekends doing the same to my stuff.
I think it’s about time I dusted off some of my old Dragon/Tamaya brand models to get some practice in. It’s decided, I’m gonna paint my Global 1940 set!
––I’m looking forward to seeing some pics of your painted pieces. IMHO, the sharing of pics between each other not only allows everyone to enjoy their work,…**but it INSPIRES each of us and “pumps-up” our desire to accomplish more.**We are very fortunate here on this forum to have many gamers willing to share their experience, talent, and opinions to the benefit of ALL.
––A&A.Org, a wonderful source of info, fun, and knowledge!“Tall Paul”
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Been off for awhile due to the new business venture, but I was able to get these done before our last game earlier this month.
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Been off for awhile due to the new business venture, but I was able to get these done before our last game earlier this month.
Wow, those are nice! :-D
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I like your p-51’s! and your old school yellow wings for the SBD dive bombers very cool.
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jluna1273,
––Nice, Nice, Nice!
Tall Paul
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Thanks guys.
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Incredible! Its amazing how many different ideas players come up with to enhance this game. I had thought of doing something very similar to my game board but realized I needed to build a mobile set. Its brilliant how you used the same LED bulb to switch colors using the polarity. I also have to commend you on your painting as well. Very nice set and fantastic detail. Thank you for sharing.
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