I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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1940 Global table & painted pieces
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That’s a total beauty. Good choice of stain.
Yrs.,
R.Thanks, my wife gets all the credit on that.
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nice setup! but painting the little star on the russian tanks is a trip
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nice setup! but painting the little star on the russian tanks is a trip
Barney, I don’t want to mislead you, the red star is a decal. I’ve been trying Flames of War decals, but I just bought 30 packs of decals from I-94 Enterprises.
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OK, so last little touch on the table. We found some camo material and used Velcro to go around the table with it.
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Now that the table is officially done, I am back to painting the sculpts. Working on Japan now.
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OK, so last little touch on the table. We found some camo material and used Velcro to go around the table with it.
Good idea. You could use the underside of the table as a concealed storage area (for game boxes and so forth), since it’s covered by the camo material.
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Yes sir, that’s the plan. I’m all about concealment.
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Working on the US fleet, Chinese infantry, and German desert/woodland patterns.
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It’s a nice touch to have individually numbered carriers.
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I received my Marines from HBG and I am so happy with these pieces, they will go perfect with this Global table and my Pacific operations. I should have the Corsairs done this weekend.
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Here are some more painted pieces.
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I am keeping the base white in order to help the neutrals stand out even more.
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They’re really good!
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Thanks, Lozmoid.
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amazing work man
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I couldn’t resist. With the help of one of my boys, we have taken on the task of lighting up the Victory Cities. We found a two color LED that changes from red to green when you reverse the polarity. We then connected a toggle switch for each that will allow the color to be changed if you lose your city to the enemy. Each country will control the toggle switch for their respective cities. (Red for Axis, Green for Allies)
The five Axis cities are wired and lit. Just need to complete the covers to the toggle switches. We only had enough to do one more, so we chose to light up Paris, France. More switches were ordered at a parts store called Altex. The remaining lights are on order from Fry’s Electronics. I will post more pics once all the Allied Victory Cities are lit up as well.
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Wow that’s pretty damn cool!
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Excellent idea.
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THAT is too cool for words! :lol:
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Greatness…take the rest of the week off!
BTW, I think you’re in the Austin area, would love to play a global game sometime, me and my son +1
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