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"Tall Paul's" A&A INFRASTRUCTURE units detailed and painted by "WARMACHINE Team"

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jwo1984
last edited by

These capitals are very cool! Makes me really want too consider investing in a large scale map……so many more options you can add to the experience of AA!
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Tall Paul Customizer
last edited by

jwo1984 and others,

@jwo1984:

These capitals are very cool! Makes me really want too consider investing in a large scale map
––Thanks, I’m glad to enjoyed them. I’m even more happy that they may have INSPIRED you to consider the possibility of a “large scale” map.
……so many more options you can add to the experience of AA!
––IMHO the money I spent on a “large scale” map was not only the BEST A&A investment I’ve ever made,….
but also gave me the “Best bang for the Buck” as far as FUN received for money spent. Let me explain:

–The BEAUTY of a well done “large scale” map is obvious.
–With everything being spread out it makes things EASIER as far as planning strategy/tactics for all players.
–Also, I’ve found that the game goes FASTER because each player can see & plan their moves quicker.
–And another “bonus” is that it’s LESS STRESSFUL because everyone isn’t afraid of making the dreaded mistake of mixing up units that are too close to each other, especially in Europe at the start of the game.
–With everything spread out and easier to see allows the game to be more ADAPTABLE as far as using addition NEW UNIT or FACILITY TYPES .

Tall Pall
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Tall Paul Customizer
last edited by

Guys,

––Here’s some pics of the Japanese Capital unit made by SHAPEWAYS. I hope you enjoy them.

Tall Paul

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Tall Paul Customizer
last edited by

jwo1984 and others,

––This thread shows the SHAPEWAY Capitals, Air, and Naval Bases that were designed by Ebard. Enjoy.

Tall Paul
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I should note that I have units from Classic, Revised Edition, 1941, & 1940 with some significant color variations. So in some cases I may be matching a different edition. So for example, I think the early UK units are darker than my 1940 versions explaining why I choose a darker color. Plus with the cheap paint, I worry that the color consistency is less consistent bottle to bottle.

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Cheers!

I have glued together 6 chips to make the stack, primed + painted, then added turf/grass on top, and last the painted piece. I didn’t want to use something that could be confused with units in the game, so i chose some random colors…

The nations roundel is fairly quick to paint, and once you get the technique right (holding brush + type of brush) its easy. My global units set is just over 1600 pieces, all have nations markers :)

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@Wolfshanze:

On HBG’s website, they have ONE plane, and it’s called the “F4F Hellcat”. I was inferring there’s no such thing as an “F4F Hellcat”… It’s either an F4F Wildcat, or an F6F Hellcat… but HBG has the plane on it’s website named incorrectly (either the #designation, or the nickname).

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Thanks for the support!

Which nation next…well for the next snowy day! Once you start it’s like…why stop there right! I dunno… will be a while till I pick up a paint brush again. Our game is in process at the moment.

RKKA, will post a pic in a few weeks when I get back to the game table. It’s early days in our game so all pieces are almost all there.

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@coachofmany:

@AlphaKappa:

@Buran:

I have just received my US units I have attached some photos. I was just wondering if what the fifth air unit is? It looks like an F6F Hellcat fighter. But there is nothing on the website about it.

Nice! They look pretty good. How’s the color compared to the OOB stuff?

HBG Olive Drab color is very close to Global 40 2nd Edition IMHO.

I don’t know, Coach! I just bought a few of your new Shermans from a friend and I was pleasantly surprised that they match my 1st Edition US pieces pretty well. :wink:

These Sherman sculpts are ace. You guys did a good job with these and now I’m looking forward to getting some of the other ones too.

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The woodland camo is a 3 step process. First of all, I painted a dark khaki color, based off of a photograph or drawing. Then I painted a burnt sienna brown in stripes and an occasional “splotch”, to simulate the camo. Then I painted a dark forest green overlapping the brown, making sure to cover most of the piece. There are many different kinds of camo, but as a general rule, it looks better when it overlaps, when it’s not a predictable pattern (you don’t want parallel stripes running along the length of the piece :-)), and when you cover the entire piece, then paint details over it. This makes it look more authentic in my opinion.

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