I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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Fan Edit 1940 Map Re-Painted
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Finished a digitally re-painted axis and allies 1940 global fan edit map. Disclaimer to download: I do not condone piracy and the release of this fan edit is for non-profit only under the fair use act given that you must own a commercially available source of the same material. To download the map you need to own both the Europe and Pacific 1940 Axis and Allies games. All rights are reserved by Wizards of the Coast LLC, a subsidiary of Hasbro, Inc.
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Sweet looking map! :-D
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Thank you for the comment John. I was checking out some of your painted Luftwaffe units and I’m pretty impressed. You and spitfire’s models are my inspiration to paint mine as well. I’ve only dabbled in the affair so this attempt will be round two with Vallejo paints.
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Thank you for the comment John. I was checking out some of your painted Luftwaffe units and I’m pretty impressed. You and spitfire’s models are my inspiration to paint mine as well. I’ve only dabbled in the affair so this attempt will be round two with Vallejo paints.
Thanks for the comments Ithaut. Hopefully within a month, I will have the first half of my German navy done. I’ve had time to get some painting in, so I’m not far off from showing you guys something. I hope you guys like it. This is my first time, I’ve painted ships.
Don’t be shy about asking for help, because every one is wonderful about helping on this site. they have helped me tremendously.
I’m sure Spitfire will appreciate your comments as well.
Thanks again! :-D
John
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Feel free to add any feedback as I’m looking to make a few changes especially towards a further customized version. I was going to take the customized version towards a kind of grind house direction with coffee stains and a grungy overlay. I’m considering having smaller country markers for the ones not represented with the possibility of a 1939 rollback. If I get permission there will also be a different victory point system borrowed from the board game ‘Struggle for Europe and Asia’. Last on the list is replacing the charts with blowup boxes for congested areas complete with some flash art that I’m willing to paint according to suggestions.
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Feel free to add any feedback as I’m looking to make a few changes especially towards a further customized version. I was going to take the customized version towards a kind of grind house direction with coffee stains and a grungy overlay. I’m considering having smaller country markers for the ones not represented with the possibility of a 1939 rollback. If I get permission there will also be a different victory point system borrowed from the board game ‘Struggle for Europe and Asia’. Last on the list is replacing the charts with blowup boxes for congested areas complete with some flash art that I’m willing to paint according to suggestions.
Are you going to put roundels on all the neutral, pro allies and pro axis countries, like Cyanight did on his map?
Just curious.
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I was thinking of doing that but I’m not sure without community support for doing it. I attempted a 1936 rollback similar to what Cyanight accomplished but it seemed too busy of a map to me. Although I did have everything as a roundel and not as strategically placed as what Cyanight did. If I do the roundel thing I’d go for half sized roundels for the neutrals with a different variation (for instance just the blue and white roundel for Finland instead of a swastika), but hopefully with permission of Cyanight to use his idea of non roundels (Mongolia just being a star except half sized in this case).
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I was thinking of doing that but I’m not sure without community support for doing it. I attempted a 1936 rollback similar to what Cyanight accomplished but it seemed too busy of a map to me. Although I did have everything as a roundel and not as strategically placed as what Cyanight did. If I do the roundel thing I’d go for half sized roundels for the neutrals with a different variation (for instance just the blue and white roundel for Finland instead of a swastika), but hopefully with permission of Cyanight to use his idea of non roundels (Mongolia just being a star except half sized in this case).
No problem! I was just curious if you thought about it, but you obviously have. I just think it is cool to have them on there. :-D
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Some decals for the map done by tracing Tamiya for speed in art rage. I’m thinking of doing stukas, u-boat, b17, zero, Japanese fleet, and a British destroyer next.
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Are you saying these are going on the map?
If you are, I wouldn’t put to many, because some people are not into pictures on a map.
I’m just letting you know from experiencing what others have said. :-)
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Very good looking map :-P
You might want to keep an eye on the release of the new map for Global War - due in November:
http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=36323.0
Might give you some inspiration (or another map source)
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Thank you for the comment Munck. I’m pretty excited for HBG’s 1936 map it’s looking a lot better than when it first appeared as an alpha. For people not being that much into flash art is actually perfect for my intentions :-D Don’t worry though they’ll still be the one that’s up now probably with the added in neutral markers. As far as the grind-house style I’m going for on the next project it’ll be a dirty torn up filter overlay to make it look old, decals for the tackiness and aftermarket look, definitely blood- coffee- and ink stains, then last on the list is sexual appeasement. Still very rough thumbnails but an idea. Figures from Aurora model.
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Thank you for the comment Munck. I’m pretty excited for HBG’s 1936 map it’s looking a lot better than when it first appeared as an alpha. For people not being that much into flash art is actually perfect for my intentions :-D Don’t worry though they’ll still be the one that’s up now probably with the added in neutral markers. As far as the grind-house style I’m going for on the next project it’ll be a dirty torn up filter overlay to make it look old, decals for the tackiness and aftermarket look, definitely blood- coffee- and ink stains, then last on the list is sexual appeasement. Still very rough thumbnails but an idea. Figures from Aurora model.
No worries, I just know that variety is always good, because not everyone is the same, but you seem to have a grasp of what your trying to accomplish, so I hope it appeals to all types. :-D
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Oh yeah Munck i almost forgot to say that unfortunately I will not be doing any edits of HBG maps. While that what I’m doing to the 1940 map is in the grey area I feel that any fun edits to their stuff (even if I had permission from HBG) would be more of a product leak since their a fairly new and independent company. I have no idea how they are pulling it off but I hope their successful especially with getting those expansion pack ideas into reality :-).
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Looks great, lthaut!
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Some decals for the map done by tracing Tamiya for speed in art rage. I’m thinking of doing stukas, u-boat, b17, zero, Japanese fleet, and a British destroyer next.
I like these and the style. Unsure if I would like them on the map or not, but there are plenty of other places you can put them.
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Map looks great, i like your style.
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Thanks everyone for the comments. LHoffman what did you have in mind for other places? I may be able to accommodate a side project. Anyway here’s an in progress concept piece for my planned unofficial map stamp on the upcoming grind-house project.
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Haha, Apocalypse Now style huh?
Other places would include the box or container for the game… if you were planning to use something other than the G40 boxes. Unless you are not having a box for it.
The main thing that I was thinking of would be the nation specific setup/National Objective charts. Lots of people have re-done these to their own liking and include some sort of country specific artwork like tanks, planes, ships, leaders, flags, etc…
If you are changing the map I assume you may also be making rule changes? A rule book would be an apt place for more artwork too.
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lol Yeah I definitely had Apocalypse Now in mind when hashing out a rough layout. I probably will drop the flash art and just go with the unofficial stamp as even though I’m taking the quickest way to do these model decals it’s still pretty time consuming and tedious. Right now I’m waiting on permission to use the victory conditions seen in Struggle for Europe and Asia on this map although I’ll have to come up with a different point system to make it work.
As this map has drastic modifications done to it despite for non-profit, educational content will always be helpful in this regard so I thought of something that might meet that intent while being artistically pleasing at the same time. The victory points I plan to add are either worth 1-3 points so what I was thinking was having actual country specific medals used with the highest award being worth 3 points i.e. the Medal of Honor for the United States followed by the Distinguished Service Cross then the Silver Star. An example concept can be seen in the PC game Close Combat (http://www.matrixgames.com/forums/tm.asp?m=2108227&mpage=1&key=�).
Thoughts and opinions?
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