Thanks, but:
1. If I did earn more, I wouldn’t be able to spend it on the game.
2. Why do you think it will take that much time to do this?
3. I already have boards for 1940 and have 1942, so I’m not inclined to spend another $140. Also - where can you get it for $120?
Unfortunately Foxtrot, Gargantua is pretty much right.
Gave it to you in a slightly different manner, but he’s right. You may have just been better off buying the two games. I was looking to do the same thing as you. I had Spring '42 and bought the global boards. I found the Italian pieces for a fairly good price, and can use older US pieces as China infantry, but that still leaves me needing France, ANZAC and mechs and tac bombers for every country.
I even thought about not using France and just moving the starting date back (forward?) until after the Battle of France was over, and consolidating the UK and ANZAC forces (probably should be anyway). Still, just buying the mechs and tacs for this revised game would put me at about the same cost as just buying the global game.
Another option you might want to consider is just playing the 1942 game on the 1940 board. There the hardest thing you have to figure out is converting the setup. Could still use the other countries if you want, or just the 5 main powers. You could also adapt any of the NOs, air/naval bases, convoy rules, etc. that you wanted.
Well, I appreciate (from both of you) the advice (albeit blunt). I think I’m going to go ahead for now and see how it works out. Is there anywhere I could look to get a sense of how many pieces typically get used in a game of Global?
F
No problem, if you ever figure anything out post your results.
You can check out boardgamegeek for lists of the number of units that come with the games, but the units that actually get used will depend upon player most of the time. For France, you would probaly only really need the units that are on the initial setup, plus one or two backups for each.
How badly do you really need / want the game?
There are other ways to hook you up. Send me a PM if you are a real fan.
4. Are the Classic russians different enough from the new russians that they could be used as Italians
The latest infantry sculpts for the five classic A&A nations all have varying degrees of small differences from the original ones, but in most cases you have to look really closely to tell the difference. The current Russians, for example, are armed with a submachine gun with a larger drum magazine than the originals. The current and original British pieces have a different elbow posture: one leaves an open space at the bend of the elbow while the other one doesn’t. (I don’t have my sculpts in front of me right now, so I can’t recall which version has which configuration.) Those are probably the two most visible differences…and from a distance of more than a couple of feet I don’t think they’d be noticeable. The differences in the other nationality sculpts – things like slightly different helmet shapes – are even more subtle. They’re so minor that even from close up they’re hard to see.
Wanna Loan?
I got mine from coolstuffinc for 120$
Thanks for all of the…other options folks here have been suggesting, but I am determined to make a stab at this.
By now I’ve learned what the two 1940 sets come with and I think I know what they are short of in a typical global game (UK carriers, German subs, Japanese tac bombers, Japanese mech infantry, Russian artillery). That leaves two sets of unanswered questions:
1. How compatible are colors from Classic, 1942, and some of the other intermediate sets. In particular, are old and new Japanese yellow close enough to be one side? What about Pacific (old, not 1940) Japanese yellow and 1942 Japanese yellow? How about 1940 Italy and classic Russia? Are revised German black black enough to go with 1942 German? Are grey revised German and old Europe German grey enough to go well with Classic German and not be confused with black 1942 German?
2. How many of each unit do the sides need, esp. the minor powers? Do ANZAC need more than 4 or 5 tanks? 4 or 5 fighters? Does Italy? I’ve had no luck finding such discussions using the search functions - is there anywhere that people post game reports or the like that might have that data? At least, are the numbers in the 1940 sets more than sufficient, except for the units I listed above?
Thanks,
F
1. How compatible are colors from Classic, 1942, and some of the other intermediate sets. In particular, are old and new Japanese yellow close enough to be one side? What about Pacific (old, not 1940) Japanese yellow and 1942 Japanese yellow? How about 1940 Italy and classic Russia? Are revised German black black enough to go with 1942 German? Are grey revised German and old Europe German grey enough to go well with Classic German and not be confused with black 1942 German?
For colour comparison data and pictures, see this thread:
http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=21158.0
Marc - thank you very much for that link - it’s exactly what I was hoping to find.
In the long run you will find you spent almost 80% of the cost of the initail purchese anyway. save youself the aggravation and just buy it used on ebay.
Marc - thank you very much for that link - it’s exactly what I was hoping to find.
You’re welcome. One note of caution: keep in mind that, if you base some of the nationalities in your converted set on the subtle shade differences that exist for the same nominal colour in different A&A editions, you may run into difficulties if your lighting conditions change. I’ve found that some shades which are easy to tell apart under one set of lighting conditions (daylight vs. incandescent vs. fluorescent) are indistinguishable in a different illumination. The green US infantry pieces (which have been produced in many slight [and not-so-slight] shade variations) are particularly notorious in this regard because fluorescent light sometimes has a greenish tinge to it.
I’d pay the $120 just to spare you this madness.
It’s not going to work, what you are describing would is going to be an abortion.
That said…
1. Color compatibility is all dependant on what you’re willing to put up with. I wouldn’t stand for it, but you don’t seem to care, so it’s not a good question to ask. You are likely to run into problems mid game, with not being able to distinguish British, Anzac, or Japanese troops, if you are mixing old, with revised, with new. It’s not a good idea.
2. 5 of everything is a good start. You’ll learn more of what you need as you go, and you can usually make do with 5.
Give up now.
I’d pay the $120 just to spare you this madness.
It’s not going to work, what you are describing would is going to be an abortion.
That said…
1. Color compatibility is all dependant on what you’re willing to put up with. I wouldn’t stand for it, but you don’t seem to care, so it’s not a good question to ask. You are likely to run into problems mid game, with not being able to distinguish British, Anzac, or Japanese troops, if you are mixing old, with revised, with new. It’s not a good idea.
2. 5 of everything is a good start. You’ll learn more of what you need as you go, and you can usually make do with 5.
Give up now.
Hey if your buying players games…I’ll take a copy of global
You can take that $120 out of foriegn aid contributions to your country idi.
Is there a difference in the quality of the cardboard used for the ICs, bases, and roundels between the two versions?
Don’t skimp on your pieces
the little tanks and dudes are what got me and others hooked
I’d say shovel snow because it snows where I’m at
but good luck with your project
Hey Foxtrot,
Here’s a little info that might help you in your quest. First of all, about the ICs. In Classic, Revised, 1942, etc. they only had one kind of IC and they used plastic pieces to represent them. In the 1940 games, they came out with major and minor ICs and use cardboard counters to represent them. Personnaly, I hate the cardboard counters and prefer the plastic pieces. You can use the grey ICs from 1942 for Majors and the white ICs from Classic as Minors. Another option for your majors is to use the grey city pieces from Risk as they are about the same shade of grey and look great on the board. You can get them for just $2.50 for a bag of 15 cities with the blue army pieces at the following link:
http://www.hasbro.com/customer-service/orderform.cfm?sku=45086
As for the roundels, Europe 1940 and the 50th Anniversary games came out with good, high quality roundels that were nice and thick. The roundels from Revised, 1942 and Pacific 1940 were very thin. Roundels from the first Pacific and Europe games are also thick and of decent quality. Check on eBay. Some sellers sell little sets of just roundels and you could probably pick up some fairly cheap. You could probably get away with just 20-30 roundels for most games. I think Japan would need the most.
A suggestion for playing pieces – there is a seller on eBay that I know called “boboshonda” that sells whole sets of national pieces for $9.99-$14.99 each. That would be a good place for you to pick up the smaller countries like ANZAC, France and Italy. Those sets also include a small number of roundels for those countries. Also, although I myself am a HUGE piece junkie, you really can get by with a small number of actual playing pieces if you have a lot of the little white and red chips. I even have blue (10) and Yellow (20) chips, though I tend to try and cram actual pieces on the board.
Here is a setup of the common pieces needed for the Global 1940 Alpha +2 setup:
8 Major Industrial Complexes
12 Minor Industrial Complexes
16 Anti-Aircraft Guns
22 Air Bases
22 Naval Bases
Now, That is just what you need to start the game. It doesn’t account for any new facilities you may want to build during the game.
Good Luck. Let us know how your project goes.
Is there a difference in the quality of the cardboard used for the ICs, bases, and roundels between the two versions?
I don’t keep track of which of my roundels come from which game, but one detail I do recall is that the roundels in Pacific 1940 and Europe 1940 have different back colours – one is black and one is white (though I don’t recall which is which). I think Anniversary is the only other game that used black backings.
