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AAA50th painted minis

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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

Thanks DFW!

Irock, yeah… I guess I could try and give some pointers, though I’d suggest searching online for such - because a lot of how to sites include photos as well.

First off - you’re going to need more colors from the ones you have listed. Its not feasible for me to tell you which ones or which brands - there’s just too many and the shades are pretty much up to you. There are - believe it or not - massive debates in some circles of miniature painting concerning which shade of gray is most like the standard confederate uniform or the proper tones of this or that camo… So at the end of the day, it’s a personal thing.

Actually… upon further consideration, I was thinking on doing a step-by-step with photos when I paint FMG’s new Italian pieces. So, you might have to wait (it’s not something I can explain in just a couple paragraphs). But if you’re in a big hurry, there are websites.
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

The Chinese forces, including the P-40 Warhawk.
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i rock
last edited by

well i will need a finer brush to so list of stuff i need
1.finer brush
2.more paints
3.more minies(i have 1 copy of revised!)
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calvinhobbesliker
last edited by

@Viracocha:

The Chinese forces, including the P-40 Warhawk.

Where’d the artillery come from? They don’t look like the AA allied artillery
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

@calvinhobbesliker:

@Viracocha:

The Chinese forces, including the P-40 Warhawk.

Where’d the artillery come from? They don’t look like the AA allied artillery

Table Tactics. In my AA50th house rules I allow for Chinese artillery with the Burma Road rule, though they do not have the ability to support infantry (and the Burma Road doesn’t cover as many territories). I like 'em because I think they represent the more “hodge-podge” collection of heavier field equipment they got during the war.
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

Italian infantry
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

Italian transports

Mantovan Class
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

Italian subs:

Adua Class

Italian destroyers:

Navigatori Class
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

Italian cruisers

Capitani Romani Class
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

Italian Battleships

Andrea Doria Class
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Viracocha Customizer
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Italian aircraft carrier

Aquila Class
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

Italian tanks:

Ansaldo-Fiat

Italian artillery:

Obice da 75 Modello Gun
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

Italian fighters:

Fiat Centauro
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

Italian bombers:

CRDA Leone
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reloader-1
last edited by

WOW!

Your infantry is unbelievable - Hell, everything is unbelievable.

I’m just blown away by the quality… :-o
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

@reloader-1:

WOW!

Your infantry is unbelievable - Hell, everything is unbelievable.

I’m just blown away by the quality… :-o

Thanks! I’ll start posting the Ruskies.

Soviet artillery:

45mm M1937
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

Soviet subs:

Malyutka Class

Soviet Cruisers:

Kirov Class

Soviet Destroyers:

Gnevny Class
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

Soviet Transports:

Freit Class
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

Soviet Battleships:

Gangut Class
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Viracocha Customizer
last edited by

Soviet Carrier:

Kiev Class

(actually, it wasn’t built until after the war… so this is kinda speculation… :wink: )
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HBG Kaga with the Standard of Admiral of IJN on its Deck

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• • • siredblood

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Thanks John, ill update this thread once more later when I finish those other troops… Oh I also replaced the some of the Japanese artillery with some from HBG, after which, I kinda liked the OOB ones better lol.
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• • • IdaRed

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@IdaRed:

Thanks for the input John and Marc. Â The differences Marc mentioned do matter to me as I am somewhat obsessive about details. I suspect I will end up a piece junkie eventually as well as I’ve always liked miniatures and model building. Â I’m not going to be painting my newer pieces anytime soon. Â I am very tempted to start practicing on the older pieces first and work my way to the newer sculpts when I am satisfied with my skill level. Â I actually got interested in painting game minis by a friend after he showed me his Battlelore set. Â He showed me how just a little bit of paint–even a basic paint job–could make a mini so much more appealing and more fun to game with. Â I’ve been really impressed with the painted minis posted in this forum. Â Â

I need to sit down and budget out minis. I think I am leaning toward just buying new copies of the games and supplementing with HBG minis for additional sculpts.Â The main drawback to just buying HBG minis is a number of the basic ones for ANZAC and Italy are out of stock right now.

It sounds as if you already fully qualify as a piece junkie (even if you don’t necessarily own a lot of sculpts right now), so welcome to the club. :)

It also sounds as if we operate on a very similar wavelength when it comes to the kinds of details that we consider important. I have a huge amount of respect for enthusiasts who paint their sculpts – often to an awe-inspiring degree of detail – but in my particular case I’ve never been interested in painting or otherwise customizing my sculpts (which is a good thing, because even if I had the interest I wouldn’t have the time and that I doubt I’d have the required eyesight and manual dexterity). In fact, for me one of the fun challenges of collecting A&A sculpts has always been: how can I organize the sculpts to make the best possible use of the range of designs and colours available, without actually modifying the sculpts themselves? How can I make use of the changes in design and colour that have taken place over the years to represent more powers that the current OOB represent?

I’m still waffling over some of the choices available to me, but one example of what I’m talking about has worked out so well that I consider it finalized. I use the nationally-distinctive butternut-grey ANZAC pieces from G40/2 to represent the southern self-governing Commonwealth Dominions (Australia, New Zealand and South Africa), and I use the British-patterned butternut-grey “ANZAC” pieces from G40/1 (boosted with half of the G40/2 ANZAC AAA units) to represent the northern self-governing Commonwealth Dominions of Canada, Newfoundland and Eire. Initially I had planned to use the “blonde” UK units from D-Day to represent Eire, which starts out as a neutral, but then I realized that this distinction wasn’t necessary: if Eire is neutral then there’s no point in giving it any units at all, and if Eire joins the war then it acquires the same status as the other northern Commonwealth Dominions and thus there’s no need for its units to be different.
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My Paint job

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• • • Tigerman77

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That is a very nice blending of colours. well done and keep up the good work. :-D
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1940 Global table & painted pieces

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• • • jluna1273

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Nice! I like how you kept some of the original piece color in the mix on the French Navy. Lookin’ good all around!
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"Tall Paul's" RUSSIAN units, detailed & painted by the "WARMACHINE Team"

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• • • Tall Paul

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Guys,

––Well, our intelligence officers are telling us that a group of twenty(20)
Russian Rifle Infantry (Winter scheme) have just completed training(painting) and are ready for deployment in Siberia or elsewhere in NorthEast Asia. Some might get transferred to Scandinavia, at least until HBG releases their 'Winter War" expansion set for their Global Warfare 1939 game. IMHO “Allworkandnoclay” did a gret job on these soldiers. Enjoy!

“Tall Paul”

infantry-russia_winter01.jpg
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"Tall Paul's" ITALIAN units, detailed & painted by the "WARMACHINE Team"

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• • • Tall Paul

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Guys,

@coachofmany:

very nice!
**––I’m glad you enjoyed them. Lord knows I CERTAINLY ENJOY HBG’S PRODUCTS!

Tall Paul**
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-A Painting Tutorial and Resource for A&A Global-

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• • • Spitfire38

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@coedewa What specific questions about camo do you have?

Here is a process I provided earlier in the thread re: a German woodland camo for armor. I’ll reiterate that you want to go light to dark when applying colors.

The woodland camo is a 3 step process. First of all, I painted a dark khaki color, based off of a photograph or drawing. Then I painted a burnt sienna brown in stripes and an occasional “splotch”, to simulate the camo. Then I painted a dark forest green overlapping the brown, making sure to cover most of the piece. There are many different kinds of camo, but as a general rule, it looks better when it overlaps, when it’s not a predictable pattern (you don’t want parallel stripes running along the length of the piece :-)), and when you cover the entire piece, then paint details over it. This makes it look more authentic in my opinion.

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