I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
CF362D52-269F-4480-8CBB-08139099138F.jpeg A9E12EA1-66EB-4671-86AC-68C62FD30AD5.jpeg 858DE1F2-030A-4D5A-93E4-70A7D1180ADB.jpeg 8F513EE0-DA37-4BA9-880E-4D5EF7BF431F.jpeg F0188165-757B-4CC1-BF67-5045832283C9.jpeg 2E3CD627-0D31-4121-ACF8-682F9F58A40B.jpeg
Global Gaming Table
-
@Brain:
I thought that would be in issue, but I can see the whole board sitting in my chair without having to stand up. It looks deeper than what it actually is. plus one of the points to the whole project was to be able to keep the seperate boards togethor witout clipping them, taping, etc.
Also you could cover it with plexiglass in the middle of a stopped game leaving all the pieces in place while using the table for another function.
Jinx. :-P
-
Also you could cover it with plexiglass in the middle of a stopped game leaving all the pieces in place while using the table for another function.
actually, the plexiglass will be directly on the board. I hate creases when i’m playing. plus it will keep the gameboard from shifting. the plexiglass is about $60 for the size i got. you could just get another 5x8 piece of wood and cover it also, that would be cheaper
$$how much??$$
the whole thing cost me about $150 so far with the plexiglass.
-
$$how much??$$
the whole thing cost me about $150 so far with the plexiglass.
If you made a couple more and sold them you could recover your costs.
-
Nice me and my one buddy plan on building a table for global in woodshop next school year. We are currently thinking of taking a standard table plan and modifing it to fit what we want. I like the recessed board area. I will have to show him that because with a huge hardwood table(our building material in woodshop) it will be a little heavy. It would be nice to be able to use it as a dinning room table too. Nice table, again.
-
Nice table, again
thank you
If you made a couple more and sold them you could recover your costs
i couldnt even imagine how much it would cost to ship one of them, it is HEAVY
-
What’s the symbol between Germany and China though?][/[/quote]
its the Union Jack (difficult to burn into wood). we wanted an additional roundel to make it look more balanced. thats why the canadian roundel was used. the french and italian are the same thing
I guess it’s too late now, but you could have used the SEAC roundel?
-
SEAC roundel
i dont even know what that is. Plus, the Union Jack was used in AAP
-
another picture
-
early on
-
to show the depth
-
Wisconsin, USA
-
No secret, I’ll see what I can come up with
-
Epic awesomeness, It has been a long time since me and my dad used to make forts for G.I. Joes when I was younger; this reminds me because one of the forts had a similar recessed design with towers at the four corners. Again dude, that is amazing.
-
I thought somebody asked, but are you going to be providing the dimensions that you used to build the board?
-
are you going to be providing the dimensions that you used to build the board?
yes, when i get a chance, i’ll post
-
I live in the Twin Cities! You gotta let me game on this…
-
Insert Quote
I live in the Twin Cities! You gotta let me game on this…got to finish it first :)
-
What’s next?
sanding, staining, just a few things
-
Very nice. I’ve been working on one for AA50 myself (with a fancy new gameboard to go with it … I’ll reveal that when I’m done ;)), but this gives me a few ideas to modify mine with. lol.
-
Stay on topic…
Suggested Topics
