I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
CF362D52-269F-4480-8CBB-08139099138F.jpeg A9E12EA1-66EB-4671-86AC-68C62FD30AD5.jpeg 858DE1F2-030A-4D5A-93E4-70A7D1180ADB.jpeg 8F513EE0-DA37-4BA9-880E-4D5EF7BF431F.jpeg F0188165-757B-4CC1-BF67-5045832283C9.jpeg 2E3CD627-0D31-4121-ACF8-682F9F58A40B.jpeg
Global Gaming Table
-
A friend and I have nearly completed a Axis & Allies Global Gaming Table. It incorporates the piece boxes that were included with the Field Marshall Games Ammo Box. We did construct two additional boxes, identical to the FMG boxes. One for China and One additional box for the United States (so there is one for the Europe side of the map and one for the Pacific side). We have a dice tower built into the table and also pockets for A&A chips. My friend is a gifted wood burner so he decided to burn some stuff into the interior wall. We still have some stuff to do but i thought i’d share.
-
one more picture
-
:-o Wow, that’s impressive.
-
Very VERY nice!
I commissioned a table for the same purpose. I was expecting to have the BEST AAA table in the entire universe…
But you are going to give my guy a run for his money.
Can’t wait to see the finished product!
-
we need more pictures of this. please post more details.
-
Very awesome.
-
Looks fantastic. What’s the symbol between Germany and China though?
-
Seems a basketball ball … maybe Harlem Globetrotters as hidden playing power? Amazing, Larry! :lol:
-
What’s the symbol between Germany and China though?][/[/quote]
its the Union Jack (difficult to burn into wood). we wanted an additional roundel to make it look more balanced. thats why the canadian roundel was used. the french and italian are the same thing
another pic
this one you can see the back of the dice tower (when finished, it will actually fold into the table). suede was used for the interior and bottom of the tower. on the same side of the table you’ll see the smaller pockets for chip holders (suede was also used for the bottom) 5 pockets on each side of the table that match the boxes that came with the FMG Ammo Box, (plus the china box and additional U.S. box). 3 pockets on the opposite end that fit the 3 misc. boxes that came with FMG Ammo Box.
-
suede was used because its more durable then felt you find at a fabric shop. their felt tends to ball up. gaming felt (like used on a casino table) is expensive. suede is soft, looks good, cheap, and durable. the table actually has no legs (guess it wouldnt be hard to do though). it was made to sit on top of another table i own. the project started because AAP40 wouldnt fit on my poker table (where we usually play). so we needed a bigger table. then we kept having more ideas for the table, but actually decided to keep it simple because it looks better with less. i’m going to stain the table (dont know with what yet). my friend is going to burn something into the dice tower facing the table (i’m hoping for an Uncle Sam Poster). i kind of mentioned it earlier, but the dice tower is removable and when layed on its side, fits into the table (in case its preferred not to be used, the space can be used for something else)
-
Excellent looking table so far, now I am inspired to try something similiar. Looking forward to seeing the completed table in action.
-
Is this going to be a one of a kind?
-
I have a few suggestions:
Add lamination on the sides, top and insert and make the dice rolling area something that all players can inspect to make sure nobody cheats. Below are some patterns and prices for 4x8 foot is about $145. You will need one.
http://www.cabinetparts.com/c/laminates-for-countertops/?gclid=CK7T4oyQmaECFRkcawod7UFBag
The logos can be decals printed on your computer. These can be applied on the sides or insert as you have done.
If you make such a nifty item, you gotta put legs on it, and make them folding so the table can be stowed away when not in use.
Felt is another option than lamination. You could even buy the cheap official poker table for like $60 on ebay and dress it out for AA.
Here is DIY:
Here is a nice one and cheap… you can add drawers underneath that hold the official FMG boxes for pieces.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-BLACK-FITTED-96-TEXAS-HOLDEM-POKER-TABLE-COVER-/350344192250?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51922420fa -
Add lamination on the sides, top and insert
i do like that idea but a little pricey. i’ve already invested about $80 bucks, plus i bought some plexiglass to put on top of the gameboard to save on wear & tear and cover the creases.
If you make such a nifty item, you gotta put legs on it, and make them folding so the table can be stowed away when not in use
the table is so big and heavy, i’m not going to be able to store to easily. i have a poker room in my basement, i’ll just lean it against the wall on poker night.
You could even buy the cheap official poker table for like $60 on ebay and dress it out for AA.
i think most poker table are perfect for AA50 (mine was), but i think AAG40 is too big for most poker tables. i have a 10 seat poker table and it still wasnt enough room
-
I don’t own a dining room table.
However when I purchased AA40 Pacific and pre-ordered AA40 Europe, I did purchase a slightly used solid mahogany wargaming table with a dark cherry finish that seats 10, and now I’m picking up and refurbishing victorian style antique upholstered chairs to match.
So I guess at Thanksgiving this year I’ll have to break out the fold out card tables and stools again :evil:
-
How large is the board area?
What’s the symbol between Germany and China though?][/[/quote]
its the Union Jack (difficult to burn into wood). we wanted an additional roundel to make it look more balanced. thats why the canadian roundel was used. the french and italian are the same thing
another pic
this one you can see the back of the dice tower (when finished, it will actually fold into the table). suede was used for the interior and bottom of the tower. on the same side of the table you’ll see the smaller pockets for chip holders (suede was also used for the bottom) 5 pockets on each side of the table that match the boxes that came with the FMG Ammo Box, (plus the china box and additional U.S. box). 3 pockets on the opposite end that fit the 3 misc. boxes that came with FMG Ammo Box.
-
Seems like the playing area is too deep. I would want to play on a level surface with the bins and dice tower flush with the playing area. Otherwise pretty sweet though. :-)
-
Seems like the playing area is too deep. I would want to play on a level surface with the bins and dice tower flush with the playing area. Otherwise pretty sweet though. :-)
Well, with the playing area inset and the dice towers turned sideways, you can put another sheet of plywood on top and play poker or cover it with a table cloth and still use the table without having to tear down the game. Very practical if you ask me. 8-)
Or you can put a sheet of plexiglass on top and it’ll be a fun A&A themed shadowbox table, which might be a little less practical, but much more fun for displaying how you’re crushing your opponent. :wink:
-
How large is the board area?
the size of the AAP40 & AAE40 combined with just a little give so I can get the boards in and out
Seems like the playing area is too deep
I thought that would be in issue, but I can see the whole board sitting in my chair without having to stand up. It looks deeper than what it actually is. plus one of the points to the whole project was to be able to keep the seperate boards togethor witout clipping them, taping, etc.
-
I thought that would be in issue, but I can see the whole board sitting in my chair without having to stand up. It looks deeper than what it actually is. plus one of the points to the whole project was to be able to keep the seperate boards togethor witout clipping them, taping, etc.
Also you could cover it with plexiglass in the middle of a stopped game leaving all the pieces in place while using the table for another function.
Suggested Topics
