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Changed IPC for Celebes Global 1940 2nd Edition vs. Sired Bloods OOB Map 1.2

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SGT-Pitbull '19
last edited by

Re: Sired's Map project - Updated- 4/16 - files available see first post

Anyone who knows if it was intended that Sired blood changed the IPC of Celebes from 3 to 4 on his OOB map?
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Bigger Pieces for Renegade Global 40 map

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• • • Britton88

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I haven’t used that map, but I’d recommend scaling your pieces up by about 10-20% to keep things proportional. Test fit as you go to make sure it works.
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Cold War 1980s Europe and Pacific. NATO vs USSR

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• • • jim010

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@panzerfreak
Sorry, hard copies only.
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Printing a map

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• • • Locke888

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Here is Imperial Leaders map too

https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=28677.0
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Map modifications

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• • • Dark394

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I’m not averse to printing a map at all, and the map files I’ve seen are indeed waaaay better. Truth is I just recently purchased the 1940 games and would like to get some use out of them before I abandon them for the master map. And will definitely look for the sticker paper my next trip to wallyworld. Thanks for the suggestion DK.
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Map file for either AA50 or 1942

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• • • Imperious Leader

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Thnx IL!

This looks like the 1942 board judging from the border of the territories. Although the sea has been painted differently and the map shows anniversary.

Unfortunately the resolution is a bit small for a nice large print.
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Majik's custom global painted pieces

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• • • majikforce

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@cyanight:

Everyone has their own unique way of painting the pieces.Â No matter how we paint the pieces they must still be playable within the game.

And the nice difference between game sculpts and real military equipment is that sculpts are rarely lost or damaged in combat. If that wasn’t the case, people might actually hesitate to risk sending their painted sculpts into battle on the game map, given the large amount of time they’ve spent on customizing them. :-)
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Global 1940 Map Print

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• • • Robbernosky

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Thanks LHoffman,

Your appreciation is my inspiration… because I refuse to use a sheet of glass, my research has lead me to a material called styrene (google it) which is a type of plastic sheet that can be directly printed on. All indications point to this method being the last alternative to glass and although it cost around $240, it looks to be my best option. Even after flushing $300 so far in a crappy print, and installation complications, I’m happy with this new direction if it turns out the way I’ve been told it will. Basically it’s flexible plastic, so it should lie flat without air pockets getting trapped, and because it doesn’t get laminated, the colors should be slightly brighter. If it is sensitive to scratching than there is a clear film sheet by 3M I can look into, that’s where I’m at right now.
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-A Painting Tutorial and Resource for A&A Global-

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• • • Spitfire38

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@coedewa What specific questions about camo do you have?

Here is a process I provided earlier in the thread re: a German woodland camo for armor. I’ll reiterate that you want to go light to dark when applying colors.

The woodland camo is a 3 step process. First of all, I painted a dark khaki color, based off of a photograph or drawing. Then I painted a burnt sienna brown in stripes and an occasional “splotch”, to simulate the camo. Then I painted a dark forest green overlapping the brown, making sure to cover most of the piece. There are many different kinds of camo, but as a general rule, it looks better when it overlaps, when it’s not a predictable pattern (you don’t want parallel stripes running along the length of the piece :-)), and when you cover the entire piece, then paint details over it. This makes it look more authentic in my opinion.

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