• yeah, i got some 3 mm plywood and cut out pieces from the map, forest’s, town’s, and road’s, and then i stuck them to the plywood, problem’s began when i started cutting up the plywood, it took about 5 minutes to cut out a hex, and then i had to sand the edge’s, and after all that the hex’es did’nt even fit together properly.
    i’m thinking i might use foam board,
    why the different thicknesses?.


  • I use 1/4 inch thick for normal terrain. I use thicker green foamboard for woods, so they stick up higher. I use thicker grey foam for buildings so they also stick up. I dont use terrain as such, but color code the terrain and go by thickness to differentiate.


  • yeah , thank’s for the information, i was thinking of changing the colour of some of my sherman m4a1’s, are there any camoflague pattern’s that are historically accurate, also for t34/76’s.


  • US tanks rarely had camoflague paint. But I have seen these:
    *** Olive paint with Khaki camo (europe)
    *** Olive paint with Khaki and brown camo (marines)
    *** Olive paint with Charcoal grey camo (europe)
    *** Olive paint with Khaki camo borderd in thin Char’ grey (ficticious, I just like it)
    *** Khaki colored with med brown camo (africa)
    *** Khaki colored with med brown camo, lined in black
    *** Khaki colored with Charcoal grey camo (africa)







  • i had a look at your website, do you supply and paint the fortifications and bunker’s or just paint them for the quoted price, are they a 3 inch hex or smaller.


  • Hello,
      Those particular Bunkers were scratchbuilt, so price included everything. They were mounted on 2" hexes. But I have made 1, 1&1/2, and 3" sizes too. I have also made bunkers complete with removeable guns, and lined in front with barbed wire. I love bunkers and anything “engineering”.

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