Hello, new guy to the board.
Recently taught a friends son and he is hooked. Before that, haven’t played in 30 years. In my destroyed game box, i even found my original 5 slips of paper, one per country, for random team assignments.

Onto my thread: I also played d&d so i had 8 and 10 sides dice. I remember coming up with new developments, and if you rolled a six, you roll an eight or 10 sided die to see what you got.

I think 7 was armed transports, and while still can be used as cannon fodder, on a roll of one they score a hit.

the eighth was radar, which means anti-aircraft can hit planes on a roll of a one or two.

9 might have been larger aircraft carriers, that can hold three Fighters instead of two.

Don’t recall the rest

While i never got to try any of these, because I had a hard time finding anyone that would play the game in the first place, I just remember being excited about the game and letting my creative writing Juices Flow about a game I love

I’m not very good at Classic, but I’ll throw my two cents in.

Typically, I commit 1-2 rounds of shucking INF from South Europe -> Africa to try to rack up some IPCs. After the first two rounds or so you’re going to need 100% of your IPCs to commit to the stack war in Eastern Europe Vs. USSR/UK.

If UK wastes their money on a South Africa/India IC I’d punish them by committing the Germans to a Egypt -> Syria -> Persia -> India trajectory, while also sending as much of Japan’s navy as possible towards India to take the free factory. If Japan/Germany can break a hypothetical India Factory early on, it can give Japan some real momentum in gobbling up IPCs in Africa + putting pressure on Russia.

Remember: In Classic, Germany has to play defensively, as they stand no chance of breaking Karelia unless your opponent is really weak. Japan has to be the main breadwinner for the Axis, abusing the weak starting setup for the Allies in Asia and the typical hyper-KGF Allied strategy to try to either take Moscow or win an “economic victory” before the Allies manage to break Germany.

@mfgeorge

Check this link out mate:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk7S2EGncSI

@Krieghund This is exactly why I called on you/Panther. I admittedly have zero clue what the actual intentions of the rules are (Hell, I do Non-Combat Moves during my Combat Move phase in all my TripleA and non-tournament games), so the best I could do is just quote the rulebook and do my best. Thanks for the help.

Well, the 3°ed rules (PC GAME 1998) still permit you to put a industrial complex in a neutral, but you can only make one unit on it.

hello there. I find a copy of the 1998 PC Game, and Manual. Look at the game, and revise the compendian doc. Make little corrections.
Rules-Variations.jpg 3rd.jpg

Hello, well i translate the manual of A&A PC 1998, from German to English. The new 3° edition rules are:

"…new features in the rules of the 3rd edition

Diving submarines: defending submarines can dive during the fight or withdraw from the fight. A submerged submarine remains in the same sea zone until it resurfaces after the fight.

Air units can withdraw from an amphibious attack: figthers and bombers can retreat from an amphibious attack if the things are shell-dead to the attacker.

Several AAA in one territory: you can now place several AAAs on a territory. However, only one of these AAA can fire during defence.

New sea units can be placed in disputed sea zones: they can now place their sea units in sea zones occupied by the friend. In this case, the fight takes place during the enemy’s strike, in case the enemy does not draw his unites before the fight from the zone.
Note: you still need to place your sea units in the immediate vicinity of one of your industrial complexes.

Western Canada no longer borders directly on the Atlantic Ocean: this prevents a player from moving units from the Atlantic directly to Western Canada…"

Now the plastic figures are finite and listed in the box (box that have a sheman tank, and not the futuristic panzer 3 we use and love); but the plastic chips number is diferenti in the boxes, some have 10 red others 7, i have 6, some have 50 blancas other 65, i have 72, soooo….

As Japan try bomber , fighter and 2 infantry against the second chinese area. my pet move

Hello Panther,

Thank you for the links, they are very helpful.

Though only the US has a Basic tactics that has not been revised. I assume there is a more modern AA out there now, as i have read a few of tbe revised ones and there are quite often ref to zones and bids etc.

So ill point these things out to my mate to take in consideration. Do tbe old articles still exist pre reviewed?

Many tbanks

Rob

Re: Axis and Allies Classic 10 part series on YouTube

I’ve added another AnA Classic video on my YouTube channel. This one is a detailed look at Russia Restricted and why it’s needed. You can check it out here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTIXI3DgIVg&feature=youtu.be

The cruiser and generic AAA units in the first printing of Guadalcanal similarly got colour-switched. It made no difference for the AAA sculpts, since they were a generic common design, but in the case of the other unit the game had a Japanese-orange American-design Portland-class cruiser and an American-green Japanese-design Takao-class cruiser.

It’s too bad that the colour-switched green German and grey American infantry units are rare production errors, and thus aren’t widely available: they would be perfect for use in A&A Battle of the Bulge as house-ruled special units representing Otto Skorzeny’s disguised infiltration units.

Buddy had that rule in his 39 game. 2 d6 SBR
Knocked Germany out of game in 2 turns. He had to change it to 1.
Doesn’t g40 have that ? Don’t really know on them games

@CrazyIvan You are welcome :slightly_smiling_face:

@shaper why not just develop a strategy to go after England instead of Russia much easier target in my opinion because Russia is to far I have seen England fall before in 1 game I played as the axis I took England with Germany then I took Russia with Germany the following turn had great luck that day probably my greatest game of axis and allies it was the 1986 classic version

My games last a good 4 hrs at most

@Midnight_Reaper Thanks for you reply

@Midnight_Reaper @Warpig
Thanks everyone! I will try to print them!

@Krieghund Thank you. Very interesting how a technological breakthrough affects other core game rules here.

Sorry…i didnt get any replies for a while so i stopped looking … i looked on ebay and i wasnt keen on buying a big lot plus shipping…also looked at buying individual pieces but some werent available…so i kinda had given up

@AcesWild5049:

I dont know how you navigated through that website to get this result. I couldnt even get the images to fit into their template without a ton of white space around it. Can throw out a link to the exact page on the website you used?

Ya… they definitely changed their format to something different than when I ordered them… it’s definitely a downgrade on ease of use.

Here’s the link that should get you somewhere close to where you need to be:
https://www.vistaprint.com/marketing-materials/labels-stickers/product-labels?xnav=swsProductOnly_ResultTitle

To get the same items I have, on that page select “Sheet, Rounded Rectangle, Horizontal, 3.5"x2”, White Paper" and then choose the finish you want and hit “Start Designing”… choose “Upload your design”, then add your image.

Finally on the sizing, it might look off, but I actually lengthened some of the flag images intentionally to get them to fit right… realize you need to FILL THE ENTIRE LABEL… this means feel free to have parts enlarged beyond the label… I did this intentionally with flags like the US Flag to get them to fit right… just enlarge it so much it fills top to bottom, don’t try and get the entire length of the flag stripes in. You might have to pull the image down, stretch it taller, then reposition it back to center until you fill the label top to bottom… just do this on all the labels you should be fine.