You might want to look into the forum a little bit deeper than the first page and read some topics… Some will be very revealing for you. If you still have questions after reading some topics and then post something new or debatable. Not something that is discussed like 1000x times… Even on this page there is a topic on Russia and also there RJClayton describes how a Russian Turn one should look like…

Straving or either taking Ukr is a necissity! for the obvious reasons rjclayton points out! You want to use your planes and sub as well instead of let them doing nothing…

If you are playing without a bid:
Buy 8 inf

Strafe Ukr with everything, idealy Germany is left with one fight, retreat to Kar.
Take Manchuria, you can even bring a fighter from Moscow.
Attack the baltic and the Spain Seazone.

After this the game is pretty much over, because Germany can’t even expand to the east to trade cau with the russians, because Ukr is a deathtrap. EE will be under heavy pressure and WeU will fall in about 3-4 turns.

Wow a whopping six votes. Hold on I want to make sure I counted right. (don’t want a recount demanded).

I kinda thought thats how it would play out. But I do think that Agent orange makes a good point. Then again I suppose I guess it depends on what you are looking for in a game.

i’ve never had this happen.  but I would build infantry en masse.  there is NO way the russia can match germany infantry for infantry

I thought we were talking about Classic A&A, not Revised A&A?  Because if we are, then you are incorrect.  Subs cannot submerge.  Hence my above post about the subs not being able to withdraw because there is no friendly seazone to withdraw to.

No, technically I’m not incorrect, - but sorry, for not being explicit.

“Submerge” is a part of the 3rd edition (cd-r) rules playable on the classic board, and very popular. Not 2nd edit exactly, but still rules for the classic board. Basically a “2nd edition extended”, really.

I could have said explicitly that I was playing a 3rd edition CD-game, I just thought it was obvious, since I was referring to the CD-R game (The “classic” CDRvideo game, not a revised map).

The CD-R contains 2nd edit rules as well as the specific additional 3rd edition rules: (east-west canada/submerge/naval occupation/arial retreat)  + the very popular rule options: “two hit battleship”, “USSR restricted” etc.

Many people actually play with these rules on the classic board as well. On boardgames in my house-club/playnights (now 3 groups of people) we very rarely play “strictly 2nd” (we soon got bored!). Much more often we play 3rd edition with option: “two hit battleship”, - but yeah, soon we will catch a revised A&A - i believe)

Concerning the nasty Kriegsmarine-destroying monster bug: This awful bug apparently comes creepin’ both in the 2nd and 3rd rules on the CD-R.

:-(

Actually in 3rd (the Hasbro CDR) you have the option of them being adjacent or not.

Read this whole thread for a comprehensive explanation:

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=7927.0

In a nutshell, bidding helps to even out the playing field.  If you played on a soccer team and always beat another soccer team by a large margin, you might “spot the other team 2 goals” to even up the playing field.

Bidding accomplishes the same thing in axis and allies.  The team that (almost) always wins without a bid is the Allies.  So the Axis are spotted some extra money at the start of the game to help even up the sides.  They can either use that money to immediately purchase units and place them on the board before the game even starts, or they can save the money and add it to one or both of the axis’ coffers.

How much money is spotted is up to the players.  Hence a “bid” format was created where player A and player B both bid to play the axis with $X extra.  Whoever bid LESS (less money going to the axis) gets to play the axis with that money.

Eg. Player A “I’ll play the axis with 8 IPC extra.”
Player B “I’ll play the axis with 6 IPC extra.”
Player A “You’re nuts!  The 6 IPC is not enough extra IPC to win as the axis.  I’ll let you play the axis with your extra 6 IPC and I’ll blow you out of the water with the Allies.  Game On!”

completely agree.  THough I generally wait to buy ARM.  I usually buy infantry and load up my front line until there is jsut nothing Germany can do , then buy tanks, and just roll over Europe.

Your’e scared of me aren’t you Colonel?? :-D

@Scarface:

  " A captured enemy territory with an industrial complex will give you limited unit placement on your next turn. It will be equal to the territory’s IPC value.

Scareface? Thats actually no problem Votswagon. You are uk, russia’s capital has gone down,you capture karelia from the germans. You have just captured an ENEMY territory!! GET IT!!! I don’t like your smug attitude either, when we are trying to answer your question!

Fair enough.

But that “settlement” does violate black-letter game rules over an ambiguity that does not really exist.

@daggaz:

EXTRA BONUS PS:  We have an interesting houserule about the capture of an enemy capital.  The IPC’s from that capital are like a stash of gold.  They are heavy, and immobile (man, digital transfer of funds thru international banking cartels just DIDNT happen back then).  That said, if you take a capital, the IPC’s of that capital are in your hands, but they are stuck in the capital of origin.  You CANNOT spend them, until a turn where the capital is in your possession on the beginning of that turn, at which point those IPC’s are transferred to your general fund, to be spent anywhere. (It takes a full round to liberate enemy gold).  Even then, the captured capital only has limited production capabilities (ie, Moscow produces only 10 units) according to the normal rules.  If you take a capital, and the enemy retakes that capital on their next turn, the enemy also retakes their gold.  Note those IPC’s can only be spent on their next turn, provided they still own the capital.Â

So which money is lost when the surviving opponent’s heavy bombers do a stategic industrial bombing attack?

That quote came from MADMAN 333, not the great and immortal MADDOGG. Get it right ! I’m not the Maddog, only a reverent disciple!

I prefer a J1 build of trn / inf without an IC.  I think it actually allows you to get more onto asia sooner than a J1 IC does, as well as giving you more flexibility with what you can do with the build.  I think there are some old posts around here about this build…

I’m hugely sorry…when I started playing there were no such tips provided with the game.

Of course, additional Asian IC(s) built by Japan are deployed against Russia.

Try posting in Find Players and Game Discussion Forum…might be easier to find a game there

try downloading tripleA from triplea.sourceforge.net

My god those people have the exact ideas that we have been using!!!

Under AARHE we got those hellcat/zeros as naval fighters (llower values and can only land on carriers)

In alot of my own games i have that infantry moves 2 with tank at 1/1 basis

Cruisers at that price, destroyers at that price… except in some games i have cruisers at 2 hits… at 12 IPC they would have to be a one hit deal.

marines the same but on the first round.

Under AARHE we use that same system for paratroopers/transport except its 2 zones max away.

Destroyer escorts and trannys done similiar to what i got.

and CA and DD can only search/ attack subs.

WOW!

Ok thanks I didnt know there was a diference

Yes.

Allied ftrs CAN defend, but they CANNOT attack.

A typical scerio is a UK 1 AC buy with the US landing 2 ftrs on the AC on US 1.

This Navy is all but untouchable for the Germans b/c the US ftrs defend with the Brits.

However, moving the UK AC on UK 2 to attack say German ships off Spain, the US planes can indeed be taken as loses but not fight offensively in the battle.

It is no different then land combat,
multinational defense - yes,
multinational attack - no.

Just wanted to say hi and introduce myself.

I have been playing of and on since I was a kiddo when it first came out.  I just got back in with some folks that play, so I am a little rusty.  :-P

Anyway…
Hopefully I can contribute and glean some information here.

Later!