Nice work - Dare I ask how many hours you put into it? For interest’s sake.

Nice work , lots of detail

I went to the local dollar store and bought some plastic storage trays that fit all my pieces. The blue tack planes and stands all fit in one of the trays, so i don’t waste time breaking them down. The odd one i have to reattach, but the freeing of space on the board is worth any hassle. I think in time i will invest in the magnets for the stands and planes, would be nice to have every plane with magnets so the stands will be more universal.

@Dafyd:

THAT IS SO COOL!  That is truly incrdible detail.Â

thanks Dafyd…this was my first post of the bombers but it screwed up, I have the other thread with the same title with more of them painted if you liked this one.

They have a turn, I believe, before the US player. The US player usually controls them, but they are still play as their own country. They have their own rules, which you will need to study.

You don’t necessarily have to have the Chinese dice, but is cool to own them, if you can get them.

I hope this helps. :-D

John

Excellent job. I also love the subs.

what was the outcome of this?
was the pieces returned?

since its christmas please tell me this had a happy outcome  :-)

(just curious, I haven’t bought anything from mclovin)

YGH…

It will add the enthusiasm for sure to do more videos!

BH

**Great work! Those are awesome. **

Is there something wrong with the pictures on the first couple of pages of this thread?  I only see a placeholder, generic image icon where the pictures should be.  :?

Sounds like a fun project.  The fundamental problem you’d have to solve, however, is the fact that the country names and – even more problematically – the country borders that existed historically in WWI were in some cases quite different from what they were in WWII.If you make them accurate for WWI, you’ll eventually end up in an alternate-history situation in which you’re fighting WWII on a WWI map with WWI powers as players.  It can also be argued that the political extremism of the 1920s and 1930s that eventually led to WWII was a direct result of the way WWI ended (specifically, the Versailles Treaty), and that if you alter the end of WWI then you alter the situation that eventually led to WWII.  That’s fine if working in an alternate-history environment is something you’re comfortable with; you simply have to be aware that you’re dealing with alternate history.

In terms of the map problem, perhaps the only option that would cover all the bases accurately, regardless of the political situation at any given moment, would be to use a simple map that is purely topographical rather than political in its territorial divisions.  A supplementary element could be to add overlays (drawn on large acetate sheets, or something similar) that provide political borders which can be adjusted from decade to decade.

That is awesome looking. Great job! :-D

Hi All,

If someone is interested, here 's our R&D set: https://www.mediafire.com/folder/owrasqpeass6a/R%26D.

These are materials for the Standard Global 1940/42 2nd edition rules and also for our simple houserule.

To speed things up we sometimes play a houserule. There the d12 board is used for along with a 12 sided die. Rule: at the beginning of every scond round (once a year) the player will roll a 12 sided dice for R&D w/o any payment. The player will gain the corresponding number in the R&D table as an ability at the end of that round. This is to give the player already the advantage during the buy phase, but not in the current attack (which he can prepare). Rolling a R&D number that you have already obtained is just though luck.

Let me know what you think, enjoy!

grtz

Wow!  Such cool pieces! (Been awhile Paul)  And there’s others I’ve yet to see that are posted -

I’m not aware of such a blank outline map existing.  Your best option might be to cover the game map with several taped-together sheets of clear acetate (the kind used for purposes like overheard projection) and trace the borders with a felt pen to produce a blank outline.  You’d then have various options for transfering this outline to the wood surface.  A low-tech method would be to cover the wood surface with sheets of carbon paper (if you can still find any, since it’s gone out of style), place your acetate outline over the carbon paper, then trace over the borders with a hard pencil.  Alternately, you could scan or digitally photograph your acetate outline and use that as the printing file you mentioned.

Had to bump this thread for research.

@John:

Another awesome video, YG.

Cheers JB.

I can see wizards of the coast having a blanket statement rejecting all requests to modify material, after all… they probaly deal with it alot with their D&D department than with Avilon Hill products.

Beautiful! Thanks for posting the pictures. I may try some of both options using the mono-scheme as my back up.

Doing it yourself can be cost effective if a game is OOP and sells for a steep premium like AA50.  Otherwise, yes, it is almost always more cost effective to simply buy the in-print game.  Doing it yourself is great if you enjoy the hobby of crafting something or want something unique. But it’s not a way to save money.

Those are really cool looking.