@sjelso said in Tjoek's Global 1940 setup charts: Updated Jan 31st:

Is this in MS Excel? If so, can you share the file?

Sorry it’s not in Excel.

@Harvard3X1 Thanks for the comment :)
The Panther is the regular panzer. The Tiger 2 is SS-Panzer and the E100 is Heavy SS- Panzer
The SS-Panzer can be produced by a max of 4 from round “late 1942” and cost 2 IPC upgraded from a normal panzer in Berlin. Attack at 4 and defend at 5
The Heavy SS-Panzer can be produced by a max of 2 from round “late 1944” and cost 2 IPC upgraded from a SS-Panzer in Berlin. Attacks and Defends at 5 and uses 2 dice. Its has 2 Hit Points as capital ships.

@CWO-Marc No problem, I just couldn’t bring myself to buy a $29.00 can of paint that would never bu used. I already had the Sakrete from a Hyphatufa planting pot I made. So there ya go. As soon as I figure out how to post pictures from my IPad to this forum I’ll update it.

@xHavokx said in Help Identifying these game pieces!:

awe that sucks…I was hoping that they were from this game as it actually looks pretty damn fun.
Its also very weird that there not legit because if there not then whatever else game this is, 100% copied pieces from axis and allies then.

Example being the Artillery Piece that’s in the pic compared to axis’s Artillery is identical. Even down to the dice that was in the bag having the American team star with circle sticker on them. Also the “T.” cardboard pieces which I figured were the “territory claimed” pieces. I do realize that a lot of toy/game company’s re-use molds and such. Every other piece looks similar but there’s always something off or different about them. Plus the 2/3 pieces (I have more pieces that I didn’t show) Are similar but have the “peg” type bottom’s like they were to be clicked into a game board…In my hours of searching axis game pieces, It didn’t seem like any had that.

From your profile you seem to have a lot of knowledge about this game but I still hope to get another opinion or someone that knows what they are from still. Thanks though I might just have to chalk it up as a loss.

Ha Those pieces with the “peg” bottom was from a game that Milton Bradley was trying to make like the Battle Ship Game . It was called “AWE HE BLEW UP MY TANK” !!! LOL

Part 4: Starting the ships, adding decals to the tanks, skin tones on the soldiers

Today spent some time adding paint to the sprayed ships, including painting the water jettisons on the subs black (this was very tricky and ended up looking a little sloppy). Advice for painting the jettisons: toothpicks are not small enough! If you do use toothpicks, you’ll have to dab a dot of black for each tiny jettison.

The battleships were a bit easier, and painting the decks, bridge, and smoke stacks were all done in silver. I plan on adding the final grey coat last after the deck and stacks/bridge dry. I experimented with how to add the national emblem, and will probably opt for a white background with a red dot on the bow of the ship. In the future I may do that with the rear end of the ship.

I painted the tranny smoke stacks silver and added a white background for the emblem on the destroyers. All in all, the Japanese navy is coming along nicely.

The armor is pretty much done. I added a white flag to the front side of the armor and will be adding the red dots later. For the aircraft, I’ll be adding a red band around the rear part of the plane. I was debating between sky blue and red and may alternate just for some variety.

The soldiers got some skin! And I just want to say that adding the paint alone brings out the contours of their facial features in an excellent manner on their own. I may add a touch of black to certain areas of the face but that will be a last step. The next step will be panting their uniforms, rifles, and helmets.

After all this is done, I will be spray painting the japanese bombers white, the aircraft carrier black, and then will add the details to those. The Japanese are about 55% done all in all and I’m pleased with the results so far even if they do look a bit amateurish. Stay tuned.

IMG_6405.JPG IMG_6404.JPG IMG_6403.JPG IMG_6402.JPG

@scmods said in Axis and allies classic enhanced 2.0:

Your pieces look great.
What kind/brand of paint did you use?
Did you brush paint or use an airbrush?

Thanks! This video should answer everything but in short I used Tamiya’s spray paints except for the Japanese. They got the airbrush.

https://youtu.be/82QytbqxJD8

@Apollopanzer said in My Axis and Allies Global 1940 game table:

yes they are, I got them from amazon

Do you have the size for them please.

@Panther ah! daylight at last! thanks!!!

Wow. I had inquired in previous threads on this forum and had only been directed to versions that had multiple personal touches on them. This is way better than mine! Lol, I’ll take it though.

Do you have any guidance on printing your own map? I hear neoprene is pretty sharp.

@CWO-Marc said in Physically modifying 1942 2nd edition map.:

My pleasure. By the way, I wrote “acrylic” above but I’ve double-checked and the correct term is actually acetate sheets, a.k.a. projector transparencies; see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transparency_(projection).

Thanks for letting me know. They’d probably give me a weird look if I asked for acrylic. 😆😆

Here is WOTC policy…

https://company.wizards.com/fancontentpolicy

fstand.jpg

The Base is the same size of an AA Gun. Fits Perfect.

@Quirky-Turtle At least you have an ocean as an excuse. Here it just a truck ride north…

So here are Grasshopper’s Battle Dice available now at Historical Board Gaming…
http://www.historicalboardgaming.com/Grasshoppers-Battle-Dice-40Set_p_2970.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPt1jF5Y4qY&t=9s

Does anyone have their own Custom Dice pictures to share, or any ideas for different dice?

@vodot said in 3D Printers?:

@IWillNeverGrowUp said in 3D Printers?:

For things like factories, shipyards, etc a simple home 3D printer works fantastic.
For things like infantry, it gets dodgy, though you CAN still make it work ok with the right settings.

I use a Monoprice Mini Select V2 (found at https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=21711).

Under $200, small buildplate (which is perfectly fine for these uses) and out-of-the-box functionality (no need to put anything together, just plug it in and you’re ready to start printing essentially). You can use basically any PLA 3D printing material for great results.

Finding the settings that work best for what you’re doing takes time, as does either MAKING the 3D files (which requires some level of experience) or finding the ones you want to print (thingiverse.com is the best source I’ve found for free to use files).

@IWillNeverGrowUp would you be willing to post some images of parts you’ve printed on the mini? I would love to see some comparisons to the IM OOB bits.

Will do once I get a chance. Just moved into a new place and everything is a disaster here. ;)

I’ve made a deckbuilding game with a friend that’s set during the American Civil War where you play cards from your deck to move different types of army units around the map, but it’s pretty specific to the Civil War – I don’t think it would port well to WW2.

You might try Quartermaster General; it’s a bit lighter than A&A, but it’s a game about making very efficient use of each card in a relatively small deck to win World War 2 by moving armies around a map.

I could help with financing?

Dice would have either land or naval with a separate category of Air because that branch overlaps both

Symbols for land: ( green) 6 dice in set
Infantry x 1
Armour x1
Mech x1
Artillery x2
Blank x1

Symbols for Naval: ( blue) 6 dice in set

Battleship x1
Cruiser x1
Destroyer x1
Submarine x2
Blank x1

Symbols for Air: (white) 6 dice in set

Fighter x2
Fighter-Bomber x2
Strategic Bomber x 2

Those look Great! We have Similar 3D printed Flag Stand.jpg