@The:

Doesn’t matter what its called as long as the italians win

It’s not really important,
but Taranto is my town, most important italian navy base since 1920.

@tytyboogie:

thanx Mclovin…i was just thinking the same thing that the 2nd edition game i have just chilling in the closet would be a great choice to paint some neutral armies with…blue for allies?what shade of blue if france is already blue? red sounds great for axis actually…i noticed grey being used for strict neutrals as well.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          mclovin    " Actually all the neutrals I just used the 1986 second edition infantry. Just mixed up different countries and painted them white, then the flags on the roundels. Not zoomed in 500x they actually don’t look too bad

I’m using second edition pieces for the Pro-Allied/Axis as well, Allied will be all blue, Axis all red. Same thing with the flag painted on the roundel."

I used a really dark blue for the Pro-Allied, so there isn’t any confusion with the French pieces. Red seemed to fit the Axis.

I am getting ready to print some Production Certificates for Axis and Allies.
It will consists of 120 bills of ones, fives, tens, and twenty’s
These are a high quality project that is printed here in the USA.
I will be selling them on my Website that will be up in a few weeks.
I believe they will sell for $7.95 and hope that everybody likes them.
Please let me know what you think!
Some of you know me as “Coachofmany” on Ebay and I feel I have a good reputuation for products and delivery!

http://www.mediafire.com/?dd5k3s81vsd5wt1

swim

You wouldn’t happen to have some drawing on that you would be willing to share?

What’s the out to out dimensions?
What’s it  standing on? is it a table that sits on anther table or is it a free standing table too?
How deep is the board set down?…etc, etc?

I’m working on some tables for the AA game group I run but we are tossing around the idea of elevating the table with a “lip” under it for trays and stuff rather than too the sides, the idea being this way the board stays as narrow as possible.

any info you would be willing to share would be cool, if you share none, that’s cool too…just seeing it is help enough.  Thanks for sharing the pics, seeing your board is really inspiring!

i don’t have a drawing.  i just laid the gameboard and pieceboxes on a piece of 6x4 board.  then took a pencil and drew their outlines.  i built up from there.

the table has no legs.  its actually sitting on another table.  its more stable that way.

the table looks wide but when you sit along side it, you can see the whole board.  i wanted to make sure i wouldnt have to stand up every time it was my turn.

i’m happy to help anytime i can.  any other questions, feel free to ask or pm me.

can you measues the amo boxes(lxwxh)and the space between the sapcers in the containers

i will, but they are the boxes from the FMG ammo box

Quebec IC is important if British hold UK but they cannot buy boats near to Englan d(because of Kriegsmarine). In that case UK must buy the canadian navy … if not, the other IC is at SAF, and I doubt that any boats built there can aid in Europe

@RedHunter:

My gaming group could careless about overall stats and couldn’t be bothered to let me take them.

Haha well then what a waste of time this was. I guess you missed the point, I wanted to see what other games looked like from a statistical view, so this post was obviously not for you and you shouldn’t have wasted our time here.

Good idea, Allweneed.  And good point.  So far, zero people have answered the poll question saying they would play as a beancounter.

@leobarron2000:

Ergo, if my side won the sea battle and only my guys remain - I can enter it during the noncombat phase.

Yes, which is sometimes req’d such as the condition where you have a carrier in range that is obligated to provide a landing space for aircraft that survived if they are out of movement points.

Thanks!

Well you wanted to know how to slow the allies down. Fucking around with the USA would do it.

These are listed on page 32 of the Europe Rulebook.

Calvinhobbesliker, kcdzim and Ruanek (welcome, Ruanek!) are all correct, with one exception.  Subs may make a noncombat movement into a sea zone that contains an enemy destroyer - they just can’t continue moving after they enter such a sea zone.

That’s how it is in the Hearts of Iron series, USSR + Mongolia = Comintern. So it would be the Comintern vs. Axis vs. Allies. I like that idea because then you could have a Cold War set up too if USSR takes out Germany and the Allies take out Italy and Japan.

I wonder if anyone has done a cold war situation after an allied(or Axis) win.

If the med is clear you could also dump it into Africa to make sure its taken by the axis…just a thought haven’t played the axis yet in global though.

@calvinhobbesliker:

@larrymarx:

I agree with everything Nagano just said based on my own experience.

I would add, however, that the Taranto raid combined with support from the Indian navy and air force makes advancing in Africa a much harder prospect. If Britain does this combined with a US KIF strategy, I don’t think Italy has a chance of making it past Egypt no matter what Germany does. When I play the Allies, this is my strategy of choice.

Yes, the allies can do that, but then japan is unchecked

Honestly imo in the global game Japan is a lot less of a threat then Germany because America can always come back and crush them later on.

@Frank:

I just played a 20+ hour game to a draw although I might of lost if it was played to conclusion. I sent the Japan Navy to Africa and protected Italy.  Italy then was spending close to the points of Germany.  The USA fleet battled the Japan fleet in the Med Sea and the Japan fleet destroyed it along with 17 US transports.  At this point Europe was Fortress that the US could never crack because I built mostly inf and art with Italy and Germany all game.  The problem is I was only able to destroy India and the Russian Inf.  China and Australia got out of hand because I did not kill them.  The Australians boarded transports and took some islands and china had a stack of like 40 inf.  We were at a point of after 20+ of play that I was not in position to get 14 victory cities but that I had about 200 inf art in Europe and America had to start a new fleet to come over to attack.  It was called a draw.

The problem is that you would have lost if the game played out as a simple money thing. The allies have more to throw at the axis over time and they could have taken Japan out forcing Germany to attack with lots of 1’s  or sit back and watch Japan get killed and then over time wittle down Germany and Italy. It would have taken another 20 turns at least.

Yes, it’s correct.  You can mobilize up to three units from the IC in the same turn that it’s upgraded, and up to ten units starting in the following turn.

Destroyers allied to the attacker do not negate defending subs’ abilities because they are not in the battle.

thank you once again for the prompt response